Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 18:30:36 -0500
Reply-To: Matt Roberds <mattroberds@COX.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Matt Roberds <mattroberds@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: Golf Alternator?
In-Reply-To: <20070621172718.YTKP1280.fed1rmmtai103.cox.net@fed1rmimpi02.cox.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> From: Christopher Gronski <gronski@GMAIL.COM>
> Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 07:57:24 -0700
>
> [ quoting http://volksweb.relitech.com/90alt.htm ]
>
>> But the wreckers have plenty of late model Golfs and Jettas, and
>> the 90 Amp alternators from them will fit the Vanagon just dandy!
>> This is also a great method of upgrading from the 65 Amp alternator
>> found in some earlier water-cooled Vanagons.
>
> Unfortunately I am still without a part number or model year for
> golf / jetta
I have an older catalog (Parts Place, in Michigan) and they claim the
following in various places. I think the "SN00000" numbers might be
peculiar to their shop, while the "00X" numbers might be the last part
of the Bosch number that many vendors use (e.g. AL00X).
"These popular 90 amp models fit most Golf and Jetta '85 and up, Fox,
Cabrio, and Vanagon!" #SN10124 (33X) Gas, 8V #SN06261 (30X) Diesel"
"Golf, GTI, Jetta, GLI, Cabrio, Scirocco, Fox, Vanagon. Gas (except
16-V) '85-'92, w/AC. #3269/#3312/#3346" (new/reman/used)
The catalog describes the mounting of the alternators as "90 degree",
"180 degree", or "90 degree plus extra hole", referring to where the
mounting holes are in relation to the shaft. The Golf and Jetta '85-'92
is described as "90 degree plus extra hole." It also notes that the
electrical connections on most '85-'90 VWs are studs and nuts (earlier
was a three-prong connector.)
In a section labeled "Golf/Jetta III, 1993-1998", there are various
alternators listed:
70 Amp, 4 Cyl, with A/C #15513, without A/C #15512
90 Amp, 4 Cyl, with A/C SN#13325, without A/C SN#15514
There are some Volkswagen-ish parts numbers in another listing of
Vanagon alternators. I suspect these are the last six digits or so of
the real VW part number (like xxx-903-114).
Air cooled '80-'83 903-114
Wasserboxer '83-'85, '88-'92 903-027
'85 903-030
'86-'88 903-033
The thing I tend to take away from all this is that you're looking for
about an '85 and up Golf or Jetta - maybe no later than '92 but I can't
tell for sure.
One way to find out is to drop by the FLAPS when they're not too busy
and convince the guy to bring out the paper catalogs. These usually
have photos or sketches showing mounting bolt holes, dimensions, and
useful things like that. Often, in larger cities, one store in each
chain is also the local warehouse, so if you figure out which store it
is and go there when they're standing around bored, they will pull
different parts from the shelf for you so you can see what will fit.
Tip: if you drive by the FLAPS regularly, always look at the cars in
the parking lot. If you see the same pristine '65 Chevy or '72 Bug
there a lot, it probably belongs to one of the staff motorheads. Find
that guy and deal with him; he can go beyond "year, make, model,
engine" and help you do things like "Yeah, you've got an '82 Cadillac,
but if you order the piece that fits a '68 Dodge and use two extra
washers under the bolts, it works just fine."
Another source is the local junkyard (and occasionally the local
library.) They will have "Hollander" interchange manuals that tell
you what parts can be swapped between different makes and models of
cars. Even if they don't have any VWs on the lot, they can at least
tell you what to look for.
If there is a rebuilder of alternators and starters near you, you might
be able to drop by and get some advice. I used to live in Dallas and I
was going to go to Tulsa to help a guy I knew fix his car. It needed an
alternator and when I asked about it in Dallas, they said they'd have to
order it in from the rebuilder. I asked where that was and they said
Oklahoma City, so I asked if I could pay them in Dallas and pick it up
in OKC. They said "sure", I paid and got a receipt, went to OKC and got
my part, and then went to Tulsa. They had a regular "parts counter" at
the rebuilder shop and it looks like they were set up to answer "what
fits" questions.
Another thought on replacing a 65 A alternator with a 90 A one: make
sure the fat red wire (main alternator output) is in really pristine
shape - no burnt or brittle places on the insulation, no bare or broken
places, etc. This wire is about to carry 50% more current than before.
If you know what you're doing you can replace it with heavier wire, but
you have to know - things that you can get away with on a 2 A stop lamp
wire or a 15 A house circuit will cause meltdowns on 90 A. Get one of
those toothbrush-sized wire brushes and shine up the ring terminal on
the wire before bolting it to the 90 A alternator.
Matt Roberds
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