David Kao wrote: > Setting lifter adjustment to 0 turn the lifter will not be able to self adjust > to take up the valve clearance when the valve train components wear over time. > Eventually you will hear valve tappet noise and you will want to re-adjust the > valve again. You may need to do that every 3-5k miles. Essentially you are not > taking the advantage of the hydraulic lifter's self-adjust feature. > > If 1 turn of adjustment screw pushes the lifter plunger down by 1 mm you are > giving the lifter 1 mm of room for self- adjustment. The valve train can wear out > a total of 1 mm of length the lifter can still self-adjust to eliminate valve > tappet noise. > > If you set 0 turn you are using your hydraulic lifter almost as a solid lifter. > Occasionally your "solid lifter" will collaps which will take 1/2 hour to be > fully pumped back up. > Good explanation. I see it. Can't see how I missed it, but this is what I am talking about. I am wandering in circles, and need to get back in the right line. I am just stuck, in my mind, at how I can push open the valve, with the adjustment, as I mentioned in the other email. Based on what you said, I can understand the design, and it ought to work just fine at 1 turn, and if I had not poisoned my approach by doing the leak test, I may not have ever noticed. I just have to get over this bump, to continue and feel good about what I have done... Thanks again. |
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