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Date:         Thu, 28 Jun 2007 09:55:42 -0400
Reply-To:     Jonathan Poole <jfpoolio@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jonathan Poole <jfpoolio@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Hydraulic Lifter Adjustments
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hey John,

I'll try to keep it brief because you will likely hear exactly what you need to know from some of the list experts.

As I understand it the engine should be warm when you do the valve adjusting. This should allow the lifters to pump up to the normal running levels. I take it a bit farther and after final adjustment run the engine for a while and then check again to make sure that things are stable and that the lifters haven't changed a bunch with the new adjustments. I have heard and tried 2 turns in, 1 turn in, 0 turns in etc. Currently I am running 0 turns on my a.c. vanagon as it yielded the highest compression (big difference from even 1/2 turn in on a few valves).

I have taken the heads off of an in engine with it in the van a few times. It is a lot of work on the air cooled van because not only will you need to remove most of the fuel injection system and intake manifold and exhaust header but you will also need to remove the cooling system tin, etc. It is very doable but be sure to get new gaskets and seals for anything that you remove and be ready to fix other problems that you may find while in there.

I hope that helps

Jonathan Poole '82 ac westy

Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 21:49:34 -0600 > From: vanagonvw <vanagonvw@GMAIL.COM> > Subject: Hydraulic Lifter Adjustments > > 81, air cooled. Hydraulic lifters > > Damn, it is really hot here in Northern Utah... Sweating like a madman > in the garage, and under the van. > > I am thinking this topic gets bandied about almost as much as tires :-) > I have read the archives, and other forums. Still want to better > understand some things tho.... > > How I got here may not matter at this point, but I am doing a leak test > on my 81 air cooled. The motor is cold. Last driven a few days > ago...Having a horrible time getting exact TDC. Off by a few degrees, > and the air pressure just pushes the piston down, and the motor around, > in whichever direction. :-) > > To get started, I took the easy way, and went with number one. Used the > timing marks, and only needed a few tries to get the piston to stay up, > and do the test. It failed, with 90psi in, and about 50psi reading, or > 45% leakage. In order to see what was going on with the valves, I took > off the cover, and noted that with the piston certainly at TDC, the > intake valve had a small amount of 'play' or 'lash' between the rocker > arm, and the stem.... The exhaust valve, however was leaking a lot, > based on what was coming out the tailpipe, relative to the intake, and > it had no play or lash at the stem. So, I backed the adjuster screw out, > eventually two full turns, resulting in a small amount of play, and > apparently this allowed the valve to close completely, and the leakage > went down to just 20%, which is not all that bad for an engine with 200K > miles on it. I would take that if they were all at 20%. > > What did I learn, and how come I am supposed to set zero lash, at TDC, > and then one to two turns down, depending on which article I read? I > don't understand the notion of adjusting that rocker arm, so that it > actually opens the valve at a point when it is supposed to be > closed..... When the lifter pumps up, won't that make it even worse? Is > that indicative of a bad lifter? Weak springs? Wrong interpretation of > the procedure <g> > > I would really like to understand how to set it up properly. > > (section two) > > It may be a totally moot point however, as number two, after an hour of > trying to find TDC that would not push the piston down, I found almost a > 50% leakage, mostly exhaust if I am any judge, and both valves had a > small amout of clearance. They were not open at all, based on the > ability to pull the rocker arm back off the stem, on both of them. Not a > lot, but enough to know, I have a problem.... > > My only choice is to get the remaining cyls tested, adjust the valves as > best as I can, and park the van, indefinitely, but I need it as a spare > set of wheels. My Ford Taurus trans went out today, so without the Van, > I have nothing to drive, and I at least need something in case of an > emergency for my kids, or hell, even me :-) No intention of driving it, > unless I absolutely have to, as that could make things ugly if its a > seat that has dropped a bit, but I cannot afford a new trans for the > Ford, let alone a new set of heads for the van, so I want to set the > valves up as best as I can. Plus, good practice, in case I ever get to > be able to fix this. > > Anyway, I hope things maybe look somewhere in the future, but for now, > I want to do the best I can with what I have, so any education from the > resident experts, would be appreciated. Kind of two issues here, but I > want to learn what it is, that I am seeing on both cylinders... > > Thanks very much, > > John > > > P.S. Would I want to try and take that head off, with the engine still > in the car, and more important, if yes, is it an overwhelming bitch to > do? Probably another thread, once I get it all tested, and adjusted as > best I can.... > > ------------------------------ > > End of vanagon Digest - 27 Jun 2007 (#2007-655) > *********************************************** >


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