Date:         Wed, 4 Jul 2007 20:30:36 -0700
Reply-To:     Matt Barclay <mbarclay@OPENFBO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Matt Barclay <mbarclay@OPENFBO.COM>
Subject:      clutch pedal adjustment procedure
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hello,

I search around the archives and couldn't find any step by step
procedures for clutch pedal adjustment, so here's how I did it for
future archive searchers.

First of all, the pedal could be off because there is air in the
hydraulic lines, or if the master or slave cylinders are failing.  The
master cylinder is located between the clutch pedal and brake pedal,
and the slave cylinder is on the transmission.  Take a good look at
each cylinder and look for fluid leaking out.  Next, consider bleeding
the system at the slave cylinder.  It has a bleeder nipple on it just
like the brakes do.  You have to use vacuum bleeding from the slave
cylinder, don't pump the pedal or use a power bleeder on the fluid
reservoir.  I've read you can also clear the lines of air by raising
the back end and leaving the bleeder open over night.  Make sure your
bleeder line is long enough so you can place the bleeder bottle higher
than the fluid reservoir, otherwise gravity will drain the system.

OK here we go.

1.  Use a 13mm wrench (ratcheting wrench works great here) to remove
the master cylinder mounting bolts

2.  Move the master cylinder around until the push rod comes out of
the top of the cylinder.

3.  (optional, but convenient) Use vice grips to remove the return
spring that holds the clutch pedal.  Let the pedal lay on the floor

4.  Remove the rubber stop that the clutch pedal rests against when in
the "clutch engaged" (full up) position.  This will allow you to
tension the clutch pedal against the master cylinder when reinstalling
the master cylinder.

5.  Use a 15mm wrench (ratcheting, if you got it) to loosen the
adjustment nut on the push rod.

6.  Rotate the push rod to adjust its length.  The goal (or my goal)
was to make it so I could just barely get the master cylinder mounted
again.  With the rubber stopper out, the pedal (and push rod) is
higher than usual.  When the rubber stopper is reinstalled the pedal
will sit with a slight pressure on the master cylinder so that as soon
as you step on the pedal you'll be in the governing range of the
cylinder  i.e.  the clutch will disengage without putting the pedal to
the floor.

7.  Tighten the adjustment nut against the clevis so the push rod
doesn't move around on its own.

8.  Reinstall the master cylinder mounting bolts.  Test the pedal, see
how it feels, have someone watch the slave cylinder to see how far it
travels.

9.  Reinstall the rubber stopper.

Cheers,
Matt