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Date:         Thu, 5 Jul 2007 10:44:58 +0000
Reply-To:     kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Kenneth Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Update on stalling '87
Comments: To: Larry Alofs <lalofs@RCN.COM>

Jeff, I had a similar problem and it was the ECU. The ECU in the later model Vanagons (86-91 Digifant) has the coil drivers built into it. So instead of having a separate ignition module like they had on the 80-85 Vanagons and like they have today, they tried to combine the ECU with the ignition module (probably to save some money). The problem was that they also moved the ECU from the rear of the van in a fresh air stream, to under the rear seat (no air flow). Then they encased it in a box and encouraged folks to pack stuff all around it (that is what the underneath of a rear seat is for, right?)

To top that all off the original ECUs had defective cold soldier joints from the factory. So add all of these together and you get ECUs that fail quite a bit. Usually when you are seeing the stalling after the van warms up for a few minutes the soldier joints are cracked and they just open up with heat and then the engine conks out. The best way to test for this problem is to have a friend with an 86-91 Vanagon who will allow you to borrow their ECU for a few hours. If you put it in and all of the symptoms go away, then you know that your ECU is bad. If not then I would say that it would almost have to be the hall sender (but I don't see these go bad as often as I see the ECUs).

I have rebuilt ECUs in stock if you find you need one. They are $250 plus $100 core charge. They are superior to the other ones out on the market (Fuel Injection Corporation rebuilds). I tried these at one point and had a 50% mortality rate (in other words 50% of them were defective right out of the box!). The original cold soldier joint problem is fixed. They have a one year warranty. Oh, did I mention they are also cheaper than the other guys?

Let me know if I can help you, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com -------------- Original message -------------- From: Larry Alofs <lalofs@RCN.COM>

> Might be worth checking the Hall sensor in the distributor. I had one > on a SAAB 900 that would crap out when hot and then work again after > cooling for half an hour. > If you look up which wire carries the signal you may be able to check > it with an AC voltmeter. Ground the HV coil wire, or disconnect the > injectors to prevent starting and check the signal while cranking the > starter. Compare the readings when cold and when it is in failure mode. > Worked for me. > > Larry A. > > > - Jeff & Kim Prudhoe wrote: > > >Hello all. > > > >I posted a couple of weeks ago regarding an idle problem with a neighbors > >recently purchased '87. The condition has gotten worse. It previously would > >exhibit stalling/stumbling at idle and in traffic. After getting the van on > the > >interstate for a few miles the subsequent stop and go driving would be w/out > >incident. > > > >The van now will start, idle for approximately 3 minutes and stall out. The > >idle will hunt just before it quits. Interestingly, the van now cannot be > >restarted for 5-10 minutes following this scenario. It can't even be driven in > >light traffic without stalling at lights. Even when on the road the van will > >not start for 5-10 minutes after it stalls. It has not made it back to the > >interstate because of the worsening condition. > > > >The van now has a new temp II sensor and idle control valve. I have also > >tested the van with a good idle stabilizer unit and have disconnected the oxs > >without change. > > > >Any thoughts on a next move? > > > >Jeff > > > > > > > >************************************** > > See what's free at http://www.aol.com. > >


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