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Date:         Wed, 18 Jul 2007 11:55:14 +1200
Reply-To:     Andrew Grebneff <andrew.grebneff@STONEBOW.OTAGO.AC.NZ>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Andrew Grebneff <andrew.grebneff@STONEBOW.OTAGO.AC.NZ>
Subject:      Re: electrolytic rust removal technique - very simple
In-Reply-To:  <A817922C9DAF504580C0D892C34367760208A1CB@GNBEX01.gnb.ca>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

>I have been removing rust from all kinds of engine parts using a 5 >gallon bucket, a 1 amp battery charger (2 amp might be faster), a coat >hanger, a stainless steel spoon or tongs (I tried rebar at first but it >required cleaning too often), some small clamps, some water and some >washing soda. Pretty amazing how well this works. Instead of writing >all about it here, just do a browser search and you will find out how to >do it. I let things bubble away for 24-48 hrs...or longer. I use a >wire wheel to clean the parts afterwards. Works great for the muffler >support rods, and metal coolant pipes in the engine compartment. Ah >science is amazing... Just ask if you have any questions on my setup. >Oh, BTW, a by-product of the reaction is hydrogen so watch for sparks >and keep it in a well ventilated place. ;o)

I used concentrated nitric acid one, and it cleaned up some really scabby rusty brake parts in minutes.

I thought it was conc acetic acid (which itself is very nasty stuff) until I saw how it fizzed and gave off brown gas... the idiot suppliers had sent me 3x20l bottles of nitric mislabeled as acetic!! -- Andrew Grebneff Dunedin New Zealand Fossil preparator <andrew.grebneff@stonebow.otago.ac.nz> Seashell, Macintosh, VW/Toyota van nut


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