Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 14:48:17 -0700
Reply-To: David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: exaust removal woes
In-Reply-To: <376051.59467.qm@web81701.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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If the broken studs are those in the rear end of the engine it may be
tough to get to even with a right angle drill. I don't know about the
right angle tool you are referring to so I don't know. If it can be done
the entire exhaust system and water pump will need to be removed still.
If you need to do it under the van wear a pair of protective goggle. Any
metal dust can harm eyes horribly.
David
--- Evan Mac Donald <macdonald1987@SBCGLOBAL.NET> wrote:
> Dropping the egine for access alone is not needed. I went to Home Depot, and went to the tools
> section, and spent about $20 on a right-angle drive for my hand-held drill. It was just about
> the best tool I have bought, considering I had to redrill and Heli-Coil two exhaust studs on my
> Butternut. It took about 20 minutes per hole. So nice!
>
> David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM> wrote: <SNIP>
> To remove a broken exhaust header stud (stuck in the exhaust port of the cylinder head)
> You need a handheld drill with 1 or 2 drill bits. It's better to use 2. The first should
> be a cobalt drill bit of 1/8" size. Use this drill bit to drill 1/4" deep into the broken
> stud in the center of it. Then use a 3/8" cobalt drill bit to drill into the same hole
> created by the 1/8" bit about 1/2" deep. Be careful not to drill into the Aluminum
> cylinder head. Cobalt drill bit is very powerful in drilling into steel. You should
> have no difficulty drilling through the broken stud. Do not use other kind of drill
> bits. You will mess up the cylinder head. Cobalt drill bits cost less than $5 each for
> the 1/8" and 3/8" sizes and they are available from Home Depot, Wal-Mart, etc.
>
> Once the hole is drilled you can use a stud removing bit, similar to a drill bit
> but has a tapered shank made of steel and cheap still. Use a small hammer to tap on
> the bit to drive it into the hole you drilled on the stud. Use a wrench to turn the
> bit counterclockwise. The broken stud will come out. The broken stud will not refuse
> to come out because it is not under any stress when the header is already removed.
> It will be a complete relief when you see the broken stud come out and the cylinder
> head unharmed whatsoever.
>
> The reason the engine needs to be dropped is so that there is room for the drill to
> do the work. Bus Depot should have replacement studs. It's a good online store based
> on my purchasing experience from it.
>
> <SNIP>
>
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