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Date:         Sun, 15 Jul 2007 14:48:17 -0700
Reply-To:     David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: exaust removal woes
In-Reply-To:  <376051.59467.qm@web81701.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

If the broken studs are those in the rear end of the engine it may be tough to get to even with a right angle drill. I don't know about the right angle tool you are referring to so I don't know. If it can be done the entire exhaust system and water pump will need to be removed still.

If you need to do it under the van wear a pair of protective goggle. Any metal dust can harm eyes horribly.

David

--- Evan Mac Donald <macdonald1987@SBCGLOBAL.NET> wrote:

> Dropping the egine for access alone is not needed. I went to Home Depot, and went to the tools > section, and spent about $20 on a right-angle drive for my hand-held drill. It was just about > the best tool I have bought, considering I had to redrill and Heli-Coil two exhaust studs on my > Butternut. It took about 20 minutes per hole. So nice! > > David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM> wrote: <SNIP> > To remove a broken exhaust header stud (stuck in the exhaust port of the cylinder head) > You need a handheld drill with 1 or 2 drill bits. It's better to use 2. The first should > be a cobalt drill bit of 1/8" size. Use this drill bit to drill 1/4" deep into the broken > stud in the center of it. Then use a 3/8" cobalt drill bit to drill into the same hole > created by the 1/8" bit about 1/2" deep. Be careful not to drill into the Aluminum > cylinder head. Cobalt drill bit is very powerful in drilling into steel. You should > have no difficulty drilling through the broken stud. Do not use other kind of drill > bits. You will mess up the cylinder head. Cobalt drill bits cost less than $5 each for > the 1/8" and 3/8" sizes and they are available from Home Depot, Wal-Mart, etc. > > Once the hole is drilled you can use a stud removing bit, similar to a drill bit > but has a tapered shank made of steel and cheap still. Use a small hammer to tap on > the bit to drive it into the hole you drilled on the stud. Use a wrench to turn the > bit counterclockwise. The broken stud will come out. The broken stud will not refuse > to come out because it is not under any stress when the header is already removed. > It will be a complete relief when you see the broken stud come out and the cylinder > head unharmed whatsoever. > > The reason the engine needs to be dropped is so that there is room for the drill to > do the work. Bus Depot should have replacement studs. It's a good online store based > on my purchasing experience from it. > > <SNIP> >

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