Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2007 22:15:54 -0400
Reply-To: craig cowan <phishman068@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: craig cowan <phishman068@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: exaust removal woes
In-Reply-To: <874741.86246.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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I"m not trying to drill out broken studs at this point. The problem arose
when the mechanic broke a tungsten carbide drill bit off flush with the head
while trying to drill out the stud. I need to get the drill bit off
first......not quite as easy as removing a stud!. You cant drill a drill
bit.
Thanks to everyone for so much support, i know that its an expensive hobby,
i know its not a dependable form of transportation.....i have a '86 mercedes
300E for that....runs like a top! BUT, i wont get to take any car with me to
school, unless its my beloved bus. And without a car, i will be unable to
come home on the weekends and maintain my current job (which is amazing),
and there is simply no empolyment in the extremely small towns that surround
the university. I know i'll manage, but i need to get this bus back to a
state of "living". Its personal at this point.
I'm crazy, i know....deal with it.
Just worked 14 hours for the 3rd day in a row, it makes you crazy.
-Craig
'85GL
On 7/15/07, David Kao <dtkao0205@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> If the broken studs are those in the rear end of the engine it may be
> tough to get to even with a right angle drill. I don't know about the
> right angle tool you are referring to so I don't know. If it can be done
> the entire exhaust system and water pump will need to be removed still.
>
> If you need to do it under the van wear a pair of protective goggle. Any
> metal dust can harm eyes horribly.
>
> David
>
>
> --- Evan Mac Donald <macdonald1987@SBCGLOBAL.NET> wrote:
>
> > Dropping the egine for access alone is not needed. I went to Home Depot,
> and went to the tools
> > section, and spent about $20 on a right-angle drive for my hand-held
> drill. It was just about
> > the best tool I have bought, considering I had to redrill and Heli-Coil
> two exhaust studs on my
> > Butternut. It took about 20 minutes per hole. So nice!
> >
> > David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM> wrote: <SNIP>
> > To remove a broken exhaust header stud (stuck in the exhaust port of
> the cylinder head)
> > You need a handheld drill with 1 or 2 drill bits. It's better to use 2.
> The first should
> > be a cobalt drill bit of 1/8" size. Use this drill bit to drill 1/4"
> deep into the broken
> > stud in the center of it. Then use a 3/8" cobalt drill bit to drill into
> the same hole
> > created by the 1/8" bit about 1/2" deep. Be careful not to drill into
> the Aluminum
> > cylinder head. Cobalt drill bit is very powerful in drilling into steel.
> You should
> > have no difficulty drilling through the broken stud. Do not use other
> kind of drill
> > bits. You will mess up the cylinder head. Cobalt drill bits cost less
> than $5 each for
> > the 1/8" and 3/8" sizes and they are available from Home Depot,
> Wal-Mart, etc.
> >
> > Once the hole is drilled you can use a stud removing bit, similar to a
> drill bit
> > but has a tapered shank made of steel and cheap still. Use a small
> hammer to tap on
> > the bit to drive it into the hole you drilled on the stud. Use a wrench
> to turn the
> > bit counterclockwise. The broken stud will come out. The broken stud
> will not refuse
> > to come out because it is not under any stress when the header is
> already removed.
> > It will be a complete relief when you see the broken stud come out and
> the cylinder
> > head unharmed whatsoever.
> >
> > The reason the engine needs to be dropped is so that there is room for
> the drill to
> > do the work. Bus Depot should have replacement studs. It's a good online
> store based
> > on my purchasing experience from it.
> >
> > <SNIP>
> >
>
>
>
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