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Date:         Tue, 24 Jul 2007 19:27:03 -0700
Reply-To:     neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Timing Mark
Comments: To: David Johnson <davidj@elpasotel.net>
In-Reply-To:  <A3577D58-4077-4F73-95B7-B815D3F429DF@ELPASOTEL.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I recall having trouble seeing the timing mark. When I found it, I put a white paint dot on it. I did the same for the appropriate timing mark on plastic piece with static timing marks.

If too hard to turn engine by hand, remove the spark plugs. It will be a lot easier to turn.

Neil.

Oh yah. Kinda doubt you would've needed to do this, but if you had the timing gear out, (gear inside block that drives dist.) make sure it is aligned correctly.

-- Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.

http://web.mac.com/tubaneil

On 7/24/07, David Johnson <davidj@elpasotel.net> wrote: > Ok, well, I am reading the Haynes manual. It says to pull the #1 > plug, and rotate the engine until you feel compression, then pull the > old one, and put the new one on. So fine. But then it says to do a > basic static engine time by rotating to the 7.5 before mark, then > adjust the position of the distributor as needed. So I kinda do need > the timing mark before I use the timing light. > > but, I now have a new problem to boot : > > I can't turn the engine by hand more than about half a rotation. > (i.e. half way around the distributor). I tried the Haynes trick of > putting it in 4th and pushing it forward (at least as much as I > could, give my limited strength and a semi-flat tire.) and the engine > does keep turning, So - is that a "normal" amount of play in an > engine? Is there something else wrong? > > I am going to recheck all of this (and reinflate the tire) the next > time I have a chance to work on things, but any help would be > appreciated before then. > > Thanks again, > > David. > > > On Jul 24, 2007, at 6:08 PM, Zoltan wrote: > > > The TDC is where the #1 is on top when the valves are closed. OK? > > And only then put the distributore in the right place. The mark on > > the pulley will be important when you use the timing light. > > Z > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Johnson" > > <davidj@ELPASOTEL.NET> > > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 4:54 PM > > Subject: Timing Mark > > > > > >> Ok, so I am slowly putting my '80 Westy back together after an engine > >> fire. I followed the Haynes guide for this since it was a little > >> more detailed than the Bentley, and after putting on a new timing > >> scale, I tried to look for a farking timing mark on the pulley. I > >> took the dang housing cover completely off, and finally after looking > >> and feeling around the pulley, I found this little tiny sort of > >> dimple on the inner rim of the pulley that looks like someone had > >> scraped clean at one point. Since I know a repair job shortly before > >> the fire resulted in the engine being retimed, I assumed this was the > >> mark, set it to TDC, took note of where the rotor was, roughly where > >> the vacuum advance was, and successfully swapped in the new > >> distributor. > >> > >> Now, having said all that, I am pondering if that was really the > >> timing mark, and if I did something else. Of course, once the fuel > >> ring is rebuilt and the wiring harness put back on, I suppose I will > >> be able to tell more readily, huh? But if anyone with wisdom on an > >> aircooled could offer any critiques, ideas, or things I missed, I > >> would be glad. I can at least guarantee that the rotor is on the > >> correct side of the distributor relative to where it was, and the > >> thing is in place about where it was before. So as long as nothing > >> else is utterly FUBAR the engine should at some point start and keep > >> running long enough to properly time it, right? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> David > >> '80 Westy (Blue Midget) slowly coming back from the brink.


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