Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 10:35:49 -0700
Reply-To: neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Deep Cycle Batteries
In-Reply-To: <46ACCD40.1080904@charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Hmmm....
Well this deep cycle and solar stuff is interesting. Learned more
reading the FAQ's.
The way my Dometic is going, (or not going. On LP. I whined yesterday
on the list about this) I'm getting sorely tempted to set up with
Norcold/solar. Something I've threatened before. Though that's some
major "KaChing" for batt/fridge/controller/panel.
Hmmmmm....
Neil.
On 7/29/07, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote:
> It did indeed. Those batteries were heaaavy! And big! It may have been a
> special installation the PO had installed. But once charged, they would
> deliver DC for a very long time. They were wired into an isolator
> circuit so that anytime the engine or the generator was started, the
> isolator would allow the batteries to receive a charge. I never ran the
> generator much because of the noise and vibration, so when I was parked
> I ran mostly on the batteries to keep the noise and disturbance to a
> minimum. Others seemed to appreciate that. Nothing much worse than to be
> in some pristine campgound by a lake in the middle of beautiful mountain
> scenery and have some idiot fire up a generator and blast the
> tranquilty. Gives one the "urge to kill", figuratively speaking.
>
> John Rodgers
> 88 GL Driver
>
> neil N wrote:
> > In reading the FAQ from link I just posted, I have learned that there
> > are hybrid deep cycle, and true deep cycle. i.e. "Rolls" as Dennis
> > pointed out.
> >
> > Did your Dodge rig have the true deep cycle batteries? (solid lead plates)
> >
> > Neil.
> >
> >
> >
> > On 7/29/07, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Some years ago I owned a big Champion motorhome - 33 feet long, not to
> >> fancy, built on a Dodge truck chassis, with a big Dodge truck engine in
> >> it. It had an alternator on the engine (don't remember what size) that
> >> was big enough to charge all batteries and operate the vehicle
> >> appliances at the same time. The refrigerator/freezer combo was a combo
> >> of propane and AC electricity - but not DC electricity. When parked -
> >> you were expected to run the generator for refer power or to fire up the
> >> propane burner on the refrigerator. There was also a 30,000 BTU Suburban
> >> Propane heater as well, that would run on the DC power. The motor home
> >> had four heavy duty wet type 12 volt deep cycle marine batteries. Those
> >> things would supply all the power I needed most times for two or three
> >> days without firing off the engine or the generator.
> >>
> >> The point - for extended reserve power, get the kind I had or modern
> >> golf cart batteries as Dennis has suggested. They are the way to go.
> >>
> >> John Rodgers
> >> 88 GL Driver
> >>
> >> Dennis Haynes wrote:
> >>
> >>> Of the battery choices out there, a conventional flooded cell will be the
> >>> most tolerant of use and abuse and provide the longest life. Most of the
> >>> 12 volt deep cycle batteries or beefed up starting batteries and still
> >>> have short lives of one or 2 seasons. The golf cart batteries are a lot
> >>> more tolerant of heavy use.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Of the common, reasonable price brands, Trojans are probably the best.
> >>> Best plates and a lot of active material in the plates. Yes there are
> >>> better such as Rolls Surrette but bring money.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> AGM and Gel batteries is still emerging technologies and the advertising
> >>> is a lot of hype. While sold as sealed, they are truly sealed. All of them
> >>> have some type of pressure relief vent. Temperature changes can cause the
> >>> vents to weep and once the electrolyte is lost it can not be replaced.
> >>> Most cell failures are the result of dry out. Unless you truly have an
> >>> application requiring a sealed battery, they are not worth the money.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any battery can boil, off gas from a failure, whatever. For an RV
> >>> application, the batteries should be installed in some type of sealed and
> >>> vented compartment, especially if you plan to sleep while the batteries
> >>> are being charged. This is not always practical so consider a flammable
> >>> gas detector. They will pick up hydrogen. Plastic battery boxes are
> >>> available for most any sized battery. They can be placed under the seat
> >>> and you can install drain and vent of desired. At least if a battery boils
> >>> out, the acid will be contained.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> For wiring and charging, the circuit needs to sized for both charging the
> >>> battery and any load connected to it. This includes inverters. The GC-2
> >>> will pull about 40 amps off the alternator during the bulk charge. Add you
> >>> other loads. Best results will also be a direct line from the alternator.
> >>> #6 gauge. Also, you want a truly reliable relay. Most important that it
> >>> disconects when expected. You want double break contacts like in those
> >>> solenoid type cans. Not a small lighting relay.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Dennis
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> >
> > http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
--
Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
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