Date:         Tue, 31 Jul 2007 12:00:43 -0700
Reply-To:     Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Yet another rusty propane tanks question...
In-Reply-To:  <6cdb63ac0707311057n505f6755se8567d0c7f5058be@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

First of all,  if you can remove the tank, have
it blasted to remove the rust and paint it.
It will need to be empty with the valve open for
several days to air it out.

If you take it to Amerigas or Suburban, they will
tell you to buy a new one because they can't
legally do anything with it .

As long as it remains on the car it's legal.
By law if they remove it they have to replace it
with an OPD type which is now made for this type
of tank.

If you or friends do the work, you are OK as long
as you do it right. Doing it right is mostlty
about checking for leaks with a spray bottle of
soapy water after reinstalling.

Also, if you want to replace a tank valve or fill
, it's best to find a good used one as my local
Suburban won't sell me the old type valve, and
the old tank is not retrofittable.

If all you want to do is make it look nice ,
which will also keep propane dealers from telling
you it's junk or refusing to fill it, bead blast
it and repaint it in the standard off-white
propane tank color and replace it.

Robert

1982 Westfalia












--- Jake Bryant <87westfalia@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

> Hey everyone,
>
> I've searched the archives, but I need a bit
> more specific advice on what to
> do about the LP tank on my 87 westy.  Let me
> preface this by saying that I
> have relatively little experience with propane
> tanks - nothing more than
> exchanging tanks for my barbeque.  I purchased
> the vehicle at the beginning
> of this year.  The LP tank definitely looks
> questionable to the naked eye,
> but from reading list entries, that doesn't
> seem too out of the ordinary.
> It still has propane in it, and the stove
> lights easily.  It looks as though
> someone tried to spray paint it at some point
> and sprayed over a pressure
> gauge and any stickers/id plates/certification
> markings that may have been
> on the tanks.
>
> So, I decided I would take it in to the local
> AmeriGas place.  The attendant
> took one look at the tank and told me it was
> "junk".  Apparently the type of
> rust he saw, which he described as "pitting",
> led him to believe it was
> done.  The entire exchange lasted about 20
> seconds and he was less than
> enthusiastic about having a look at it for me,
> so I'm not certain how much
> stock I should put in his diagnosis, and am
> hoping to get a second opinion.
> So, here are some questions:
>
> 1) How can I tell if the rust on this tank is
> cosmetic surface rust or
> something to be concerned about?
>
> 2) Where are the certification markings and ID
> plates of importance
> generally located.  I see a couple stickers
> (peeling off and painted over)
> and what looks like a plate on the top of the
> tank in the middle.
>
> 3) What do I need to do to prepare the tank for
> removal?  I'm assuming all
> of the LP needs to be bled out, but does anyone
> have instructions for doing
> this safely and for removing the tank from
> start to finish?
>
> 4) Once it is removed, what is the best way to
> recondition it?  I've heard
> sandblasting (I don't have one, will try manual
> sanding) and
> repainting/sealing with rustoleum.  Any other
> suggestions?
>
> 5) Once it has been cosmetically reconditioned,
> I am still planning on
> having it tested by an LP shop.  I just don't
> want it dismissed right away
> due to the rusty exterior.  What should I
> expect an LP professional to do to
> test a tank that "looks" okay?  Pressure tests?
>
> 6) Any other general suggestions/information?
>
> I am aware of the new tank available from GW,
> but I want to be sure that
> this one is no good before I spend over $300 to
> buy one that I probably will
> be unable to install myself.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>




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