zolt..your scaring the isht out of the poor guy.. the ID plate is superficial.. if they look scaly or have alot of rust underneath, i just grind them off and chuck them. Manchester was retarted for affixing the ID plates this way anyway.. ive seen scaly rust under the ID plate but NEVER a hole thru or even a weak spot.. chris
In a message dated 8/1/07 1:48:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET writes:
> > If that welded on ID plate is bulging too too too much, it is probably done. > Most bad rusting is happening there. If its kind of level still, take the > whole thing out and clean it up and POR 15, and Rustoleum paint it, put new > fill valve, new press. release valve, new regulator and that's it. You > don't need to let the gas out of it for just painting, but for changing the > valves, yes. Take off the regulator and open the valve, while the tank is > in the correct position as it would be in the car. > Once it is empty, you can weld and grind and all. The wall thickness of the > tank is not changing substantially with the usual rust. But under the plate > can be half the thickness. One can weld a new piece in there, but it better > be a good welder who knows what he is doing. > To take out the whole thing as follows; > Take off the stone guard, one bolt&nut each side, 13mm. > Take off the pipes, > 15mm long sockets for the nuts that hold it up. Don't take out the two > inner ones, only make them very loose. Take out the two outside ones only. > Hold the tank before you take out the second one, than lower it nicely. > There is no danger. Its a normal gas tank. > Now, remember, you are working with gas. Some of the fittings are marked > with a notch, that means left hand threaded and they tighten and loosen the > opposite way. Just like on an oxy-acetilene set you find them. Fittings > are tapered and self sealing, but you put on teflon tape. > The whole thing is not a big deal, really. It is only strange the first > time. > Zoltan > > >
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