Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 17:58:26 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Yet another rusty propane tanks question...
In-Reply-To: <6cdb63ac0707311057n505f6755se8567d0c7f5058be@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
No legitimate company is going inspect, pressure test and certify and take
on the liability of that tank, for any reasonable fee. There is no LP tank
police so as long as some propane guy is willing to fill it and there is
no leakage, you can probably use it at some level of risk. Cleaning an
painting it will be DIY task.
Bus Depot seals the tanks at a reasonable price and if you are really
concerned, then just replace it. Not too much fuss to change it. Get a new
regulator while you are at it. Over paint the new tank for more protection
and you will be good for the next 15 years.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Jake Bryant
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 1:57 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Yet another rusty propane tanks question...
Hey everyone,
I've searched the archives, but I need a bit more specific advice on what
to
do about the LP tank on my 87 westy. Let me preface this by saying that I
have relatively little experience with propane tanks - nothing more than
exchanging tanks for my barbeque. I purchased the vehicle at the
beginning
of this year. The LP tank definitely looks questionable to the naked eye,
but from reading list entries, that doesn't seem too out of the ordinary.
It still has propane in it, and the stove lights easily. It looks as
though
someone tried to spray paint it at some point and sprayed over a pressure
gauge and any stickers/id plates/certification markings that may have been
on the tanks.
So, I decided I would take it in to the local AmeriGas place. The
attendant
took one look at the tank and told me it was "junk". Apparently the type
of
rust he saw, which he described as "pitting", led him to believe it was
done. The entire exchange lasted about 20 seconds and he was less than
enthusiastic about having a look at it for me, so I'm not certain how much
stock I should put in his diagnosis, and am hoping to get a second
opinion.
So, here are some questions:
1) How can I tell if the rust on this tank is cosmetic surface rust or
something to be concerned about?
2) Where are the certification markings and ID plates of importance
generally located. I see a couple stickers (peeling off and painted over)
and what looks like a plate on the top of the tank in the middle.
3) What do I need to do to prepare the tank for removal? I'm assuming all
of the LP needs to be bled out, but does anyone have instructions for
doing
this safely and for removing the tank from start to finish?
4) Once it is removed, what is the best way to recondition it? I've heard
sandblasting (I don't have one, will try manual sanding) and
repainting/sealing with rustoleum. Any other suggestions?
5) Once it has been cosmetically reconditioned, I am still planning on
having it tested by an LP shop. I just don't want it dismissed right away
due to the rusty exterior. What should I expect an LP professional to do
to
test a tank that "looks" okay? Pressure tests?
6) Any other general suggestions/information?
I am aware of the new tank available from GW, but I want to be sure that
this one is no good before I spend over $300 to buy one that I probably
will
be unable to install myself.
Thanks for your help!