Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 10:37:06 -0700
Reply-To: Zoltan <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Zoltan <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Subject: Re: Yet another rusty propane tanks question...
Content-type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original
If that welded on ID plate is bulging too too too much, it is probably done.
Most bad rusting is happening there. If its kind of level still, take the
whole thing out and clean it up and POR 15, and Rustoleum paint it, put new
fill valve, new press. release valve, new regulator and that's it. You
don't need to let the gas out of it for just painting, but for changing the
valves, yes. Take off the regulator and open the valve, while the tank is
in the correct position as it would be in the car.
Once it is empty, you can weld and grind and all. The wall thickness of the
tank is not changing substantially with the usual rust. But under the plate
can be half the thickness. One can weld a new piece in there, but it better
be a good welder who knows what he is doing.
To take out the whole thing as follows;
Take off the stone guard, one bolt&nut each side, 13mm.
Take off the pipes,
15mm long sockets for the nuts that hold it up. Don't take out the two
inner ones, only make them very loose. Take out the two outside ones only.
Hold the tank before you take out the second one, than lower it nicely.
There is no danger. Its a normal gas tank.
Now, remember, you are working with gas. Some of the fittings are marked
with a notch, that means left hand threaded and they tighten and loosen the
opposite way. Just like on an oxy-acetilene set you find them. Fittings
are tapered and self sealing, but you put on teflon tape.
The whole thing is not a big deal, really. It is only strange the first
time.
Zoltan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Condelli" <RAlanen@AOL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 3:23 AM
Subject: Re: Yet another rusty propane tanks question...
> In a message dated 31/07/2007 2:31:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I've searched the archives, but I need a bit more specific advice on what
> to
> do about the LP tank on my 87 westy. Let me preface this by saying that
> I
> have relatively little experience with propane tanks - nothing more than
> exchanging tanks for my barbeque. I purchased the vehicle at the
> beginning
> of this year. The LP tank definitely looks questionable to the naked
> eye,
> but from reading list entries, that doesn't seem too out of the ordinary.
> It still has propane in it, and the stove lights easily. It looks as
> though
> someone tried to spray paint it at some point and sprayed over a pressure
> gauge and any stickers/id plates/certification markings that may have
> been
> on the tanks.
>
> So, I decided I would take it in to the local AmeriGas place. The
> attendant
> took one look at the tank and told me it was "junk". Apparently the type
> of
> rust he saw, which he described as "pitting", led him to believe it was
> done. The entire exchange lasted about 20 seconds and he was less than
> enthusiastic about having a look at it for me, so I'm not certain how
> much
> stock I should put in his diagnosis, and am hoping to get a second
> opinion.
> So, here are some questions:
>
> 1) How can I tell if the rust on this tank is cosmetic surface rust or
> something to be concerned about?
>
> 2) Where are the certification markings and ID plates of importance
> generally located. I see a couple stickers (peeling off and painted
> over)
> and what looks like a plate on the top of the tank in the middle.
>
> 3) What do I need to do to prepare the tank for removal? I'm assuming
> all
> of the LP needs to be bled out, but does anyone have instructions for
> doing
> this safely and for removing the tank from start to finish?
>
> 4) Once it is removed, what is the best way to recondition it? I've
> heard
> sandblasting (I don't have one, will try manual sanding) and
> repainting/sealing with rustoleum. Any other suggestions?
>
> 5) Once it has been cosmetically reconditioned, I am still planning on
> having it tested by an LP shop. I just don't want it dismissed right
> away
> due to the rusty exterior. What should I expect an LP professional to do
> to
> test a tank that "looks" okay? Pressure tests?
>
> 6) Any other general suggestions/information?
>
> I am aware of the new tank available from GW, but I want to be sure that
> this one is no good before I spend over $300 to buy one that I probably
> will
> be unable to install myself.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
>
>
>
>
> Jake, your making a mountain out of a molehill. If the tank is holding
> propane and not leaking then it's good to go. Leaks are obvious as
> Propane
> freezes up as it hits the atmosphere so you will see a white frost at the
> point of
> the leak. To remove the tank from the vehicle it does not need to be
> emptied. Just close the service valve, remove the skid plate, disconnect
> the two
> copper lines from the regulator, put a floor jack under the tank, remove
> the
> four nuts holding the tank to the frame and lower the tank on the floor
> jack.
> Now take the tank outside and remove the regulator then open the service
> valve and let the tank empty itself overnight. Then remove all the
> valves and
> plug the holes with threaded bungs available from any good hardware
> store.
> Remove the data tag if it the sort that welded on in the four corners. If
> it's the sort welded on with a continuous weld, leave it be. Now find
> yourself
> someone in you area that does sandblasting and have the tank sandblasted.
> Get a _POR-15_ (http://www.por15.com/) kit in black or silver, your
> choice and
> follow the instructions for coating the tank with POR-15. The tank will
> never, ever rust again and be better than a new one which will rust again
> unless
> you follow the above instructions before installing it. Install new
> valves,
> standard fill valve, spit valve and service valve and regulator to be on
> the
> safe side then put it back on your Westy, fill the tank and you will
> never
> ever have to worry about that tank again. If you cannot find the valves
> and
> regulator at a RV Propane service facility near you I have them, see my
> _Vanagon Items Forsale_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/sales.htm) website
> under
> the "Westfalia Camper Parts" listing. BTW, I just POR-15ed two tanks
> yesterday.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Condelli
> Almonte, Ontario, Canada
> '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) )
> _Frank Condelli & Associates_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html)
> - Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
> _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm)
> _BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper
> camping event, Almonte, ON, June 07 ~ 10, 2007
>
>
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