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Date:         Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:47:54 EDT
Reply-To:     JordanVw@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         JordanVw@AOL.COM
Subject:      Re: Yet another rusty propane tanks question...
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

ALL propane tanks are rusty looking. unless your one of those weenies who live in california or in the southwest and never driven your van in the salt. the tanks are HEAVY gauge metal... ive never seen one rusted thru..even on rusty, salt driven vanagons from new england. if the tank holds propane, then your fine. they all have the ID plate rusting off. the reason the propane tank dude wouldnt fill it is because of their lawyers, and because he wants you to spend $$$$ and have you buy a new one thru him. wire brush the tank, paint it with rustoleum, make it all purty, and go to another propane place and they will fill it.

end of story.

those tanks will never rust thru.

chris

you wrote:

> Hey everyone, > > I've searched the archives, but I need a bit more specific advice on what > to > do about the LP tank on my 87 westy. Let me preface this by saying that I > have relatively little experience with propane tanks - nothing more than > exchanging tanks for my barbeque. I purchased the vehicle at the beginning > of this year. The LP tank definitely looks questionable to the naked eye, > but from reading list entries, that doesn't seem too out of the ordinary. > It still has propane in it, and the stove lights easily. It looks as > though > someone tried to spray paint it at some point and sprayed over a pressure > gauge and any stickers/id plates/certification markings that may have been > on the tanks. > > So, I decided I would take it in to the local AmeriGas place. The > attendant > took one look at the tank and told me it was "junk". Apparently the type > of > rust he saw, which he described as "pitting", led him to believe it was > done. The entire exchange lasted about 20 seconds and he was less than > enthusiastic about having a look at it for me, so I'm not certain how much > stock I should put in his diagnosis, and am hoping to get a second opinion. > So, here are some questions: > > 1) How can I tell if the rust on this tank is cosmetic surface rust or > something to be concerned about? > > 2) Where are the certification markings and ID plates of importance > generally located. I see a couple stickers (peeling off and painted over) > and what looks like a plate on the top of the tank in the middle. > > 3) What do I need to do to prepare the tank for removal? I'm assuming all > of the LP needs to be bled out, but does anyone have instructions for doing > this safely and for removing the tank from start to finish? > > 4) Once it is removed, what is the best way to recondition it? I've heard > sandblasting (I don't have one, will try manual sanding) and > repainting/sealing with rustoleum. Any other suggestions? > > 5) Once it has been cosmetically reconditioned, I am still planning on > having it tested by an LP shop. I just don't want it dismissed right away > due to the rusty exterior. What should I expect an LP professional to do > to > test a tank that "looks" okay? Pressure tests? > > 6) Any other general suggestions/information? > > I am aware of the new tank available from GW, but I want to be sure that > this one is no good before I spend over $300 to buy one that I probably > will > be unable to install myself. > > Thanks for your help! > > > > > >

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