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Date:         Wed, 1 Aug 2007 06:23:10 EDT
Reply-To:     RAlanen@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Frank Condelli <RAlanen@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Yet another rusty propane tanks question...
Comments: cc: 87westfalia@GMAIL.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

In a message dated 31/07/2007 2:31:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:

Hey everyone,

I've searched the archives, but I need a bit more specific advice on what to do about the LP tank on my 87 westy. Let me preface this by saying that I have relatively little experience with propane tanks - nothing more than exchanging tanks for my barbeque. I purchased the vehicle at the beginning of this year. The LP tank definitely looks questionable to the naked eye, but from reading list entries, that doesn't seem too out of the ordinary. It still has propane in it, and the stove lights easily. It looks as though someone tried to spray paint it at some point and sprayed over a pressure gauge and any stickers/id plates/certification markings that may have been on the tanks.

So, I decided I would take it in to the local AmeriGas place. The attendant took one look at the tank and told me it was "junk". Apparently the type of rust he saw, which he described as "pitting", led him to believe it was done. The entire exchange lasted about 20 seconds and he was less than enthusiastic about having a look at it for me, so I'm not certain how much stock I should put in his diagnosis, and am hoping to get a second opinion. So, here are some questions:

1) How can I tell if the rust on this tank is cosmetic surface rust or something to be concerned about?

2) Where are the certification markings and ID plates of importance generally located. I see a couple stickers (peeling off and painted over) and what looks like a plate on the top of the tank in the middle.

3) What do I need to do to prepare the tank for removal? I'm assuming all of the LP needs to be bled out, but does anyone have instructions for doing this safely and for removing the tank from start to finish?

4) Once it is removed, what is the best way to recondition it? I've heard sandblasting (I don't have one, will try manual sanding) and repainting/sealing with rustoleum. Any other suggestions?

5) Once it has been cosmetically reconditioned, I am still planning on having it tested by an LP shop. I just don't want it dismissed right away due to the rusty exterior. What should I expect an LP professional to do to test a tank that "looks" okay? Pressure tests?

6) Any other general suggestions/information?

I am aware of the new tank available from GW, but I want to be sure that this one is no good before I spend over $300 to buy one that I probably will be unable to install myself.

Thanks for your help!

Jake, your making a mountain out of a molehill. If the tank is holding propane and not leaking then it's good to go. Leaks are obvious as Propane freezes up as it hits the atmosphere so you will see a white frost at the point of the leak. To remove the tank from the vehicle it does not need to be emptied. Just close the service valve, remove the skid plate, disconnect the two copper lines from the regulator, put a floor jack under the tank, remove the four nuts holding the tank to the frame and lower the tank on the floor jack. Now take the tank outside and remove the regulator then open the service valve and let the tank empty itself overnight. Then remove all the valves and plug the holes with threaded bungs available from any good hardware store. Remove the data tag if it the sort that welded on in the four corners. If it's the sort welded on with a continuous weld, leave it be. Now find yourself someone in you area that does sandblasting and have the tank sandblasted. Get a _POR-15_ (http://www.por15.com/) kit in black or silver, your choice and follow the instructions for coating the tank with POR-15. The tank will never, ever rust again and be better than a new one which will rust again unless you follow the above instructions before installing it. Install new valves, standard fill valve, spit valve and service valve and regulator to be on the safe side then put it back on your Westy, fill the tank and you will never ever have to worry about that tank again. If you cannot find the valves and regulator at a RV Propane service facility near you I have them, see my _Vanagon Items Forsale_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/sales.htm) website under the "Westfalia Camper Parts" listing. BTW, I just POR-15ed two tanks yesterday.

Cheers,

Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) ) _Frank Condelli & Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html) - Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm) _BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper camping event, Almonte, ON, June 07 ~ 10, 2007


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