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Date:         Fri, 10 Aug 2007 22:31:00 -0700
Reply-To:     Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Subject:      Re: Dometic woes
Comments: To: neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <c4e7c5f90708102105t583f0d57nf4fb0799ce9f0181@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

wd 40 does not contain silicon. silicon grease is ok , in fact approved and recommended to use on rubber. Well that's what they tell me in my biz :0

Alistair

On 10-Aug-07, at 9:05 PM, neil N wrote:

IIRC a spray containing silicone, like WD40, is hard on rubber. Did you use anything like that?

In the 182B service manual, there is a pic of positioning of sparker tip etc. but unfourtunately the sparker/thermal etc. are different sizes.

Is there a manual for the 182A online anywhere?

I wondered too if parts were aligned correctly in combustion chamber of my 182A. What I found was that basically the thermal mounts one way as does the sparker and burner/jet.

The positions should be correct if parts mounted in the correct places.

Neil.

-- Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links! http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home

Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia. http://web.mac.com/tubaneil

On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote: > I'm becoming resigned to opening the combustion box yet one more time > tomorrow to confirm that the thermocouple is correctly positioned. > But how > would I know? Should it be directly over the burner? And how far > above it? > > I still don't have a solution to my very stiff fridge air pump. In > case it > is a clue, I notice that when I go for the first stroke after not > using it > for a while (like a 1/2 hour or so), it is VERY sticky, as if the > rubber is > literally stuck to the sides of the cylinder walls. > > It seems like the right answer would be the correct lubricant, but > I've > tried light machine oil and silicone lubricant, and neither has > worked well. > > Paul > > -----Original Message----- > From: neil N [mailto:musomuso@gmail.com] > Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:37 PM > To: paul@takingflight.net > Subject: Re: Dometic woes > > On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote: >> I have followed virtually all of Sisler's instructions...very >> clear and >> helpful, but, so far I haven't resolved it. >> >> Yes, when it has stayed lit it cools very well on LP, even better >> than 40 >> degree differential, probably because I added a bit of insulation >> where >> possible. Plug is in. I'm not aware of the change in flame, the >> reason > for >> that, or how to detect that. > > Bear in mind that I have a 182A. Very similar to 182B but my knowledge > comes from working on that model. > > What model is your's? > > > Look at flame in view hole inside fridge at bottom LH side. You should > notice a difference in flame size when you turn thermostat. When > fridge at room temp, at min. smaller flame, higher setting bigger > flame. I believe you should hear a "click" too when going from one > size flame to another. Of course the point at which the flame changes > sizes depends on inside temp of fridge. > >> >>>> If pump gets that much resistance, is it possible that >>>> something is >> blocking the flow of air from pump and building pressure? (far >> fetched >> idea I know) Maybe that would also prevent pump from getting fresh >> air >> from getting to chamber. >> >> I do not know why so much pump resistance, but that can't be >> right. When > I >> had it out and cleaned, the pump was working, though stiff then >> too, even >> with no hose attached and so no air resistance. >> >>>> Is intake tube *absolutely* clear? >> >> Do you mean the clear plastic tube between the pump and the brass >> valve? > > > No.The big air intake tube beside exhaust tube. > > My thinking is that if blocked, that would explain flame starting > (you''ve pumped air in) then going out from lack of oxygen. > > > < If >> so, when I blew on the end of the plastic intake tube, with no >> pump there, >> it seemed to me there was quite a bit of resistance to just >> blowing. I >> replaced the plastic tubeing, and removed the brass valve and >> examined it, >> but knew of no way to check or clean it, so replaced it with >> nothing done. > > > IIRC, plastic tube connects to a union which is soldered (?) to metal > tube (at least on 182 A). From there it goes into intake flue. ..... > > Ok I just looked at my spare Dometic 182B. There is a small metal > connector between plastic tube and metal tube. Interesting to note > that there is a check valve of some sort in there. When pumping, check > valve moved back and forth. It appears to block on the backstroke. > Something to check if you have same setup. Looks like a place where > debris could block. > > I just blew through the metal portion of tube. Blew easily. There > shouldn't be a lot of resistance, when blowing through tube. > > > >> >> As for the metal tube beyond that brass valve, again, I know of no >> simple >> way to check or clean that. I'd need a mini-roto-rooter. But >> then, how >> could that get blocked, if you think about it? > > > > >> >> Thanks, >> Paul >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: neil N [mailto:musomuso@gmail.com] >> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 5:40 PM >> To: Paul Chubbuck >> Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com >> Subject: Re: Dometic woes >> >> I understand your sentiments. >> >> :) >> >> When it was staying lit, (at least long enough to get things cold) >> did >> it get the fridge down to app. a 40F differential? If not..... >> >> Did you clean the jet orifice and if so, how did you clean it? >> >> I used acid/water mix on mine and it cured the problem of flame not >> creating enough heat. >> >> Does it stay lit long enough to see if thermostat changes flame from >> small to large? >> >> Is plug in at bottom? (drain plug) >> >> If pump gets that much resistance, is it possible that something is >> blocking the flow of air from pump and building pressure? (far >> fetched >> idea I know) Maybe that would also prevent pump from getting fresh >> air >> from getting to chamber. >> >> Is intake tube *absolutely* clear? >> >> Check Roger Sislers pages for some pics and info. It helped me. >> (and so > did >> he!) >> >> Forgive my spelling. No glasses on! >> >> Neil. >> >> On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote: >>> I sealed one side with a cork and blew in the other end. Very >>> leaky. >>> >>> I just spent the better part of the today taking it all apart, >>> sealing > the >>> system with better gaskets and caulk and putting it back >>> together. Same >>> cork test was MUCH less leaky, almost no leaking at all afterwards. >>> >>> But....I just got it back together and, guess what? I cannot get >>> it to >> stay >>> it lit more than a few seconds. And the pump, which I cleaned and >>> re-lubricated with silicone instead of oil, is so stiff that it's >>> very >>> difficult to get more than 5-6 strokes in. >>> >>> I even obtained a little 2 D-cell operated fish aeration pump >>> which I >>> plumbed in next to the air pump with a "T", but that didn't help >>> get it >>> started at all. >>> >>> VERY discouraging. I've put in at least a solid week's work on that > damn >>> Dometic this season yet don't have an reliable fridge to show for >>> it. >>> >>> A Norcold by next season, I swear. >>> >>> Paul >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On >>> Behalf > Of >>> Roger Sisler >>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 12:51 PM >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >>> Subject: Re: Dometic woes >>> >>> Check for a leaking combustion chamber, with the Domeitic still > installed. >>> >>> Leaky chamber causes hard staring and flame out when driving. >>> >>> Remove the chrome vent cover. Put a cork in the deepest of the two > vents, >>> and blow into the other. It should be an obvious seal. >>> >>> If not, got to find the reason, and retry. Is the drain cap off? > Unsealed >>> box? loose orifice in box? Cracked corrigated vent pipes ( a good >>> possibility)? >>> >>> Cracked vents are caused when removing and reinastalling the >>> Dometic. >>> Especially the 182b. Very brittle pipes. When bent to much, they >>> will >> crack >>> at a bend. If you have cracked vent pipes, remove the side grill and > stick >>> your hand inside and feel for the crack. Never done it, but muffler > cement >>> on the crack is the fix. >>> >> >> >> -- >> Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links! >> http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home >> >> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia. >> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil >> >> > > > -- > Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links! > http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home > > Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia. > http://web.mac.com/tubaneil > >


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