Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 10:10:59 -0400
Reply-To: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: Tips or Hints for Replacing Power Steering Racks?
In-Reply-To: <20070816120917.62D6E3285D0@mail.umassd.edu>
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The "Hard" part for me, when replacing the power steering rack, was
getting the steering shaft connector, that goes over the splines on the
rack, to open up enough for removal. I ended up using a hammer and a
"Railroad spike" which turned out to be the perfect tool for the job.
Once that connector is off, the steering wheel will do 360º spins so
reconnecting it a spline or more off is no biggie. One just has to pull
the steering wheel and reset it there (after getting the wheels aligned,
of course).
My rack came with new tie rods and tie rod ends ... which is good in
that I would've been replacing them had they not come with it.
One other thing ... my rebuilt rack's mounting points were off about a
"Dollar's worth". I say that because when I laid the rack on a level
surface (mounts down) it would rock back and forth. I found that 2 US
quarter coins under one corner and 2 quarters under the opposite corner
was what it took to prevent any rocking. If I had bolted it to the van
as it was it would have pushed 2 of the mounting bushings all the way to
the metal and would have still stressed the rack. I got some big
washers to use as "leveling spacers" and the result is good. The rubber
bushings are now doing their job and the rack isn't being tweaked by the
mounting bolts.
Mike
Richard Golen wrote:
> Good Morning,
>
> I've ordered a rebuilt steering rack for my 87 Westy, and it should
> be here around Tuesday. I plan on replacing the rack, and try to
> salvage some sort of road trip for the tail end of next week.
>
> Unfortunately both Bentley and Haynes are rather lacking on
> descriptions on how to replace the steering racks. I've looked at the
> rack and it appears that the steering joint needs to be undone, two
> power steering lines need to be undone, the tie rod ends popped, and
> the four mounting bolts removed. I assume that putting in the new one
> is the reverse proceedure (other than taking the outer tie rods off
> the old unit and putting it on the new rack). Also I have to flush
> the lines, etc. with Dextron.
>
> I figure this to be about a 3 hour job......
>
> Anyone have any tips and advice? Are there any on-line descriptions
> that I can check out?
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Ric
>
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