Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:14:14 -0700
Reply-To: Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: '82 diesel 1.8 conversion
In-Reply-To: <c4e7c5f90708191003i988ca70xba2037fdde50c53b@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Neil,
The main reason for going with a 1.8 head and
intake manifold when using the Diesel hardware is
is to fit the engine under the engine lid.
Using the 2.0 stock puts the crossflow intake
manifold above the lid, meaning you have to cut a
hole in the lid .
The benefit of the longer intake runners on with
the crossflow head is hp gain.
Long runners equal hp gain.
The benefit of the longer runners is in a narrow
range of RPM, most likely over 5,000 rpm, where
it is rare to go in a Vanagon.
The compromise then is the Digifant intake
manifold. This has longer runners than say a VW
Fox or Rabbit.
Long runners are tuned runners. They help
increase air flow to the cylinders. The more air
-fuel you can cram into the cylinders, the more
power you can get. The exhaust downpipes also
need to be a tuned length, such as individual
headers on a performance race engine have a
certain length before joining together.
Length of intake and exhaust is designed by
formula starting with the cam . The pressure wave
is timed to return to the valve just as it opens
or closes.
Incorectly tuned exhaust will lower hp .
The Tiico has a good example of a tuned exhaust.
The manifold divides the exhaust in 2 and sendsit
down two seperate pipes a certain length before
joining.
The intake ports and exhaust ports are the same
size for 1.8 and 2 liter.
The longer tuned length is useful for a lighter
car that can spool up rpm rapidly.
In the heavy Westfalia you need a bigger engine
or performance mods to do this.
Robert
--- neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Robert.
>
> Do you know if there's a HP loss (tiny loss
> likely) when using the 1.8
> head on the ABA 2.0?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Neil.
>
> --
> Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
> http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
>
> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>
>
>
> On 8/18/07, Robert Keezer
> <warmerwagen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Hi Byron,
> >
> > I have done the 1.8 conversion and my
> > recommendation is to use a 2.0 liter( '93-'99
> ABA
> > block with the 1.8 head instead.
> >
> > I have gone thru two 1.8's and so has a
> > friend's.In my experience they don't hold up
> to
> > the demand the Westfalia puts on them.
> >
> >
> > The 1.8's are underpowered in a Westfalia and
> the
> > strian is too much for the rods . I have had
> two
> > engines burn out rod bearings and likewise my
> > friends.
> >
> > The 2 liter has oil spray nozzles that spray
> the
> > bottom of the pistons, cooling them and thus
> > keeping the rods cooler.
> > It also has more HP and torque than the 1.8.
> > 2.0 blocks around here go for 200.00-300.00.
> >
> > You use the 1.8 head and head gasket. You
> need to
> > clearance the left firewall to accomodate the
> > intake manifold. For fuel injection system
> you
> > can use CIS, CIS-E, DIgifant 2, Motronic.
> >
> > I find Digifant 2 the esiest fuel injection.
> > ('88-'92 Golf -Jetta)
> >
> > My 2 liter has gone over 215,000 miles since
> I
> > installed it in 1999. It's a strong engine,
> and
> > smoother, less vibration.
> >
> > I know the Diesel sounds good but I would'mnt
> go
> > with anything less that a TDI or 1.9 turbo.
> >
> > The other thing to consider is the
> transmission.
> > Your stock Diesel trans is low geared and
> makes
> > the engine run about 1,000 rpm's higher than
> if
> > you use a air-cooled trans with all the
> Diesel
> > trans stuff like bellhousing, brackets and
> > mounts.
> >
> > GTI engine , 1.8 , about 105 hp and 109 ft
> lbs
> > torque.
> > ABA engine 115 hp and 126 ft lbs of torque.
> >
> > Of course, how you fuel it or mods your
> > make/don't make, can increase/decrease those
> > numbers.
> >
> >
> >
> > Robert
> >
> > 1982 Westfalia
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- byron nemela <byronknemela@YAHOO.COM>
> wrote:
> >
> > > I need some help from folks who've done the
> 1.8
> > > I4
> > > switch. Even better, I could use a mechanic
> > > who's done
> > > conversions in the Detroit/Ann Arbor
> area...
> > >
> > > OK, so I've got a lovely rust-free '82
> Westy
> > > with a
> > > blown 1.6TD, and I'm about to buy a 1.8
> engine
> > > from a
> > > GTI for $300. (I know, why gas? A used
> 1.6TD
> > > will cost
> > > me $2000 shipped and still be 68HP vs
> 107... If
> > > anyone
> > > can sway me to a 1.9TD switch, please let
> me
> > > know.)
> > >
> > > Thing is I'm a potter not a mechanic, but a
> > > buddy can
> > > drop the bad engine and mount the new one.
> Then
> > > 'Bill
> > > Muncy's' in Ann Arbor says he'll do the
> rest
> > > (charging
> > > me $74/hr 'including head scratching'). So
> I'd
> > > like a
> > > general idea of how big a job it is, how
> long
> > > it
> > > takes.
> > >
> > > 'Tom's VW pages' online, gives great info
> on
> > > diesel to
> > > gas swap, but if anyone can point out the
> best
> > > 'step-by-step' resource - that would be
> great!
> > > I just
> > > want to reduce our 'head scratching' here
> (and
> > > would
> > > love to find a local shop who's done this
> kind
> > > of
> > > switch).
> > >
> > > ...and (just so you know how the VW gods
> are
> > > having
> > > fun here) I've got two months off starting
> in
> > > Sept and
> > > had planned to tour the southwest in the
> bus!!!
> > > I
> > > guess better the engine blew here than
> there,
> > > but I'd
> > > still love to have it on the trip...
> > >
> > > So if you 1.8 Vanagon drivers could help me
> > > through
> > > this process, that would be terrific!
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Byron
> > >
> > > '82 Westy 1.6TD (rod through head...)
> > > '93 Volvo 940T (old reliable)
>
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