Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 23:56:01 -0700
Reply-To: Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: '82 diesel 1.8 conversion
In-Reply-To: <ac1f198b0708201736p224d3f8coedbfa715e6802610@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I differ to beg on the head reseal-
I've been running this 2.0 engine since 1999 with
the 1.8 head on the 2 liter block.
Head issues are rather rare on VW inline fours -
I don't mean hammered and thrashed ones, but ones
like namby-pamby drivers like myself run.
To help guarantee 0 head problems you need : new
stretch bolts, new gasket, anad clean square head
to block mating surfaces.
And NO slathering on gobs of silicone or other
sealants to ease your worried mind!
The head should be sent to a machine shop for an
inspection and new oil seals. I had everything
done- valves , seats, guides. All new oil seals
on the block.
Lid raising is a personal choice if you don't
need the leg or head room.
Should I also mention that that stuff is easier
to access, like spark plugs and injectors, on the
1.8 head as opposed to the 2.0 crossflow head?
Switching to the 1.8 brings the engine closer to
the Diesel simplicity. I also think the crossflow
head sticking up out of the engine bay looks
stupid when it should be below the lid.
That's how the Diesels were done, and the South
African inlines.
You can see I am all for keeping with convention
to a certain degree.
To the casual bystander it's "What were the
engineers drinking?"
Replacing the head gives the opportunity to
inspect the pistons, cylinders and rings, valves
, etc.
Looking at everything before it all goes back
together and installed is one way to help keep
from the getting the Crud!-I-have-to
do-it-all-over again-blues.
Anyone want pics of mine emailed to them just
e-mail.
Robert
1982 Westfalia
--- Jim Akiba <syncrolist@BOSTIG.COM> wrote:
> Yeah if you're open to modifying the deck lid,
> I would just do it. I
> believe you'll find you're far better off not
> opening up the longblock than
> having to swap a head. The reseal you get will
> never be as good as the
> original head seal, not to mention down the
> road, you can swap another
> complete engine in when the time comes, and
> avoid it more than once on the
> deal.
>
> Jim Akiba
>
>
>
> On 8/20/07, byron nemela
> <byronknemela@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > So if the main reason to use a 1.8 head on a
> 2.0 block
> > is to fit under the lid, could I just raise
> the engine
> > lid a couple inches and 'modify' my rear deck
> with a
> > handy plywood sheet, and go with a stock
> 2.0???
> >
> > I've found a couple 2.0 engines near me but
> am still
> > looking for an aircooled transmission. (If
> anyone has
> > one collecting dust or knows a place in the
> mid-west I
> > can try, please let me know; worst case is to
> ship one
> > in from CA.)
> >
> > I've also noticed the oil pan on my turbo
> diesel was
> > damaged. Do I need another one from a diesel,
> > specifically, for this conversion?
> >
> > And again, if anyone knows a place that does
> these
> > conversions in MIchigan (Ohio, Illinois...
> have tow
> > bar, will travel!)let me know. The VW shop in
> Ann
> > Arbor is game but he's never done one before.
> I'd even
> > be happy to leave it with someone to work on
> cause I'm
> > going out of state for two months soon...
> >
> > Thanks for all the information. I truly
> appreciate it!
> > Byron
> >
> >
> > --- Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Neil,
> > >
> > > The main reason for going with a 1.8 head
> and
> > > intake manifold when using the Diesel
> hardware is
> > > is to fit the engine under the engine lid.
> > >
> > > Using the 2.0 stock puts the crossflow
> intake
> > > manifold above the lid, meaning you have to
> cut a
> > > hole in the lid .
> > >
> > > The benefit of the longer intake runners on
> with
> > > the crossflow head is hp gain.
> > > Long runners equal hp gain.
> > >
> > >
> > > The benefit of the longer runners is in a
> narrow
> > > range of RPM, most likely over 5,000 rpm,
> where
> > > it is rare to go in a Vanagon.
> > >
> > > The compromise then is the Digifant intake
> > > manifold. This has longer runners than say
> a VW
> > > Fox or Rabbit.
> > >
> > > Long runners are tuned runners. They help
> > > increase air flow to the cylinders. The
> more air
> > > -fuel you can cram into the cylinders, the
> more
> > > power you can get. The exhaust downpipes
> also
> > > need to be a tuned length, such as
> individual
> > > headers on a performance race engine have a
> > > certain length before joining together.
> > >
> > > Length of intake and exhaust is designed by
> > > formula starting with the cam . The
> pressure wave
> > > is timed to return to the valve just as it
> opens
> > > or closes.
> > >
> > > Incorectly tuned exhaust will lower hp .
> > >
> > > The Tiico has a good example of a tuned
> exhaust.
> > > The manifold divides the exhaust in 2 and
> sendsit
> > > down two seperate pipes a certain length
> before
> > > joining.
> > >
> > > The intake ports and exhaust ports are the
> same
> > > size for 1.8 and 2 liter.
> > >
> > > The longer tuned length is useful for a
> lighter
> > > car that can spool up rpm rapidly.
> > >
> > > In the heavy Westfalia you need a bigger
> engine
> > > or performance mods to do this.
> > >
> > > Robert
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Robert.
> > > >
> > > > Do you know if there's a HP loss (tiny
> loss
> > > > likely) when using the 1.8
> > > > head on the ABA 2.0?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks.
> > > >
> > > > Neil.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia
> links!
> > > > http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
> > > >
> > > > Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled
> Westfalia.
> > > > http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On 8/18/07, Robert Keezer
> > > > <warmerwagen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > > Hi Byron,
> > > > >
> > > > > I have done the 1.8 conversion and my
> > > > > recommendation is to use a 2.0 liter(
> '93-'99
> > > > ABA
> > > > > block with the 1.8 head instead.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have gone thru two 1.8's and so has a
> > > > > friend's.In my experience they don't
> hold up
> > > > to
> > > > > the demand the Westfalia puts on them.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > The 1.8's are underpowered in a
> Westfalia and
> > > > the
> > > > > strian is too much for the rods . I
> have had
> > > > two
> > > > > engines burn out rod bearings and
> likewise my
> > > > > friends.
> > > > >
> > > > > The 2 liter has oil spray nozzles that
> spray
> > > > the
> > > > > bottom of the pistons, cooling them and
> thus
> > > > > keeping the rods cooler.
> > > > > It also has more HP and torque than the
> 1.8.
> > > > > 2.0 blocks around here go for
> 200.00-300.00.
> > > > >
> > > > > You use the 1.8 head and head gasket.
> You
> > > > need to
> > > > > clearance the left firewall to
> accomodate the
> > > > > intake manifold. For fuel injection
> system
> > > > you
> > > > > can use CIS, CIS-E, DIgifant 2,
> Motronic.
> > > > >
> > > > > I find Digifant 2 the esiest fuel
> injection.
> > > > > ('88-'92 Golf -Jetta)
> > > > >
> > > > > My 2 liter has gone over 215,000 miles
> since
> > > > I
> > > > > installed it in 1999. It's a strong
> engine,
> > > > and
> > > > > smoother, less vibration.
> > > > >
> > > > > I know the Diesel sounds good but I
> would'mnt
> > > > go
> > > > > with anything less that a TDI or 1.9
> turbo.
> > > > >
> > > > > The other thing to consider is the
> > > > transmission.
> > > > > Your stock Diesel trans is low geared
> and
> > > > makes
> > > > > the engine run about 1,000 rpm's higher
> than
> > > > if
> > > > > you use a air-cooled trans with all the
> > > > Diesel
> > > > > trans stuff like bellhousing, brackets
> and
> > > > > mounts.
> > > > >
> > > > > GTI engine , 1.8 , about 105 hp and 109
> ft
> > > > lbs
> > > > > torque.
> > > > > ABA engine 115 hp and 126 ft lbs of
> torque.
> > > > >
> > > > > Of course, how you fuel it or mods
> your
> > > > > make/don't make, can increase/decrease
> those
> > > > > numbers.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Robert
> > > > >
> > > > > 1982 Westfalia
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- byron nemela
> <byronknemela@YAHOO.COM>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > I need some help from folks who've
> done the
> > > > 1.8
> > > > > > I4
> > > > > > switch. Even better, I could use a
> mechanic
> > > > > > who's done
> > > > > > conversions in the Detroit/Ann Arbor
> > > > area...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > OK, so I've got a lovely rust-free
> '82
> > > > Westy
> > > > > > with a
> > > > > > blown 1.6TD, and I'm about to buy a
> 1.8
> > > > engine
> > > > > > from a
> > > > > > GTI for $300. (I know, why gas? A
> used
> > > > 1.6TD
> > > > > > will cost
> > > > > > me $2000 shipped and still be 68HP vs
> > > > 107... If
> > > > > > anyone
> > > > > > can sway me to a 1.9TD switch, please
> let
> > > > me
> > > > > > know.)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thing is I'm a potter not a mechanic,
> but a
> > > > > > buddy can
> > > > > > drop the bad engine and mount the new
> one.
> > > > Then
> > > > > > 'Bill
> > > > > > Muncy's' in Ann Arbor says he'll do
> the
> > > > rest
> > > > > > (charging
> > > > > > me $74/hr 'including head
> scratching'). So
> > > > I'd
> > > > > > like a
> > > > > > general idea of how big a job it is,
> how
> > > > long
> > > > > > it
> > >
> > === message truncated ===
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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