Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 07:43:23 -0400
Reply-To: Raymond Paquette <raymondpaquette@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Raymond Paquette <raymondpaquette@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Baja California
In-Reply-To: <HHEAJIOMDPBGGCKHACGJKEIKCNAA.al_knoll@pacbell.net>
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David
I agree with all that Mark has said.
I have been to Baja MANY times, used to drive the Green Tortoise down there
regularly. Never had much trouble, and the worst is near the border. The
juxtaposition of US wealth and Mexican poverty is a bad combination.
Although much of that is just a hustle for the money-intimidating but not
dangerous. I've never, ever feared for my personal safety, only
occasionally for the security of my stuff.
The main paved road gets better all the time. Some parts are very
potholed. My trick to those is, if I have to hit a hole, I try to swerve a
bit (gently) to lighten the weight on the pothole-hitting wheel. Makes
quite a difference.
Driving: right blinker means don't pass, I can see something coming that you
don't want to hit. Left blinker means that you can pass, or that I forgot
to turn off my blinker. Oncoming trucks and busses will often move toward
the middle of the road just before meeting you. This way, when they move
back to the right side of the road, and the vehicle leans away as they pass.
Most places have no margin at the edge of the road, so don't drop a right
wheel off the pavement. It's easy to do with the narrow lanes, and the sand
can grab that wheel and steer you further off.
If you have to make some mileage, I don't hesitate to drive at night. Get
some really good lights and watch out for cows. They like to congregate in
vados, the dips in the road. I think night driving is actually fairly safe
because there are fewer vehicles to run get hit by, especially RV's.
Not very busy nice places in no particular order:
The peninsula which encloses the bay at San Quintin is a nature preserve.
Beautiful camping in the dunes and on the beach. If you have 4wd, you can
drive anywhere you want along the beach. Be warned, here and most places
along the Pacific side can be cold and blustery.
High desert around Cataviņa. Pick any of the side roads and explore the
rocks and cactuses.
The peninsula which encloses Bahia Concepcion. Mostly passable with 2wd,
watch for soft sand. Pretty and empty. Not as sandy as the beaches on the
west shore of the bay, but not developed either. I've seen mountain lions
out there.
Missions and mountain towns west of Loreto. Don't remember names, but the
area is beautiful. Roads are rough but mostly 2wd passable.
There are nice beaches east of San Jose del Cabo. Not unpopulated, but very
nice. Again, with 4wd, you can drive along the beach to find a nice spot to
camp. Without 4wd, you can look from the dirt road. Good spots are
accessible from the road.
Mision San Borja-reachable by 2wd. Beautiful remote Mission, excellent
hiking. There is a hot spring but the pool is usually full of slime. You
can do a hot water bucket bath though.
There are two oases which I never drive by without stopping. San
Ignacio-make the turnoff to the right, and where this paved road curves
sharp left, turn right onto dirt road which leads to palm grove beside fresh
water lagoon. Beautiful spot to camp or swim. Also Mulege, walk up to the
Mission for the view.
Have fun. Assume everyone is kind. They usually are.
Raymond
On 8/29/07, Pensioner <al_knoll@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> A good reference on mexico and travels there is Peoples Guide to Mexico.
> Far more than just a Guidebook it delves into customs, feelings, societies
> and so on. Baja California is vast. Long ago there was a sierra club
> book
> called:
>
> _Baja California and the Geography of Hope_
> Text by Joseph Wood Krutch Photographs by Eliot Porter.
>
> Long out of print, it will give you a sense of the place like no other
> publication. The lithography is Champions Kromekote, a magnificent and
> very
> expensive photo reproduction publishing method. Astonishingly realistic.
>
> Sierra Club books 1967. Your library may have a lending copy. Well worth
> the reading.
>
> Web searches will turn up an astonishing number of tour purveyors of all
> sizes and prices.
>
> AAA (the autoclub) has a fine map and book on Baja. Another source is
> www.vagabundos.com, they have a bookstore on line I think.
>
> The best idea is what Mark suggests, go there. South of San Quintin on the
> Pacific side in the summer, it's cooler. Pick up a phrasebook or Franklin
> translator to help with the language change, be respectful, humble, smile
> a
> lot, and you will find that the locals are helpful and gracious once out
> of
> the tourist areas.
>
> Go soon, it is changing very rapidly.
>
> The condo commandos are now well entrenched and gaining ground by the
> hour.
>
