Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 06:34:33 -0700
Reply-To: dylan friedman <insyncro@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: dylan friedman <insyncro@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Coolant recommendations
In-Reply-To: <vanagon%2007100708114626@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I would like to add that, with a expansion tank cap that is working properly, whatever air is leftover will move to the expansion tank and work its way out to the overflow tank on the first couple heat cycles of the system.
If it does not, pressure test the cap.
Years ago I bought a huge bag of brand new caps, it has turned out that 1 of 3 actually works properly.
dylan
Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA> wrote: On that Subject, i ave to fully agree with Dennis!
Lately, i don't even touch to the front rad screw, that mean if the rad
isn't emptied, there is no to very small air that will go there, but that is
with the rear raised at ramp hight. For me, 2.1 - 1.9 make no difference.
Just slowly filled that tank (engine cold and rear raised) slowly until
full, to be sure, when really full, you can open the rad bleeder screw and
you will see coolant going out, if not, go in the back and just put a bit
more. bother heater ON HOT. Start the van for a few second and watch the
front bleeder. Close everything and you are done. It take more time to fill
the van than to bleed it.
As fo Subaru, that a bit different (well, sorry to say but we do way more
subi lately than wasser engine, Canada as been converted...) Most Subi get
new rad (just because we don't want to take any chance), new heater valve,
new rad hoses and sometime heater coolant hoses so the van is emptied
completely. We do the same thing as a wasser engine but sometime we need
some extra bleeding because the front heater still as air pocket, but
nothing special, just raise the engine 2000, close the EX tank and open the
front rad bleeder screw until it's a clean flow, close this one and re-open
the EX tank cap until no more bubble is IN this one... done.
Cheers, Ben
http://www.benplace.com/
On Sat, 6 Oct 2007 22:48:20 -0400, Dennis Haynes
wrote:
>It doesn’t take hours to properly bleed the cooling system. In fact if it
>is taking more than 5 minutes it was done wrong. And once the cooling
>system is able to establish flow, if all is well it will finish bleeding
>on it's own, even the 1.9 set up which is not as resilient as the 2.1.
>
>The real trick to proper bleeding is that it has to be done while the
>engine is cold so that the coolant isn't trying to vaporize.
>
>That is my story and I'm sticking to it!
>
>Dennis
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>BJ Feddish
>Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 8:22 PM
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Coolant recommendations
>
>I feel like I'm at an AA meeting but I will confess I still have the green
>stuff in my van that was put there in 1996. I am a 100% believer that the
>problem with the Vanagons is air in the system. To make an extremely long
>story short that's what killed my ol' '84 GL in '95. I bled every ounce
>of
>air out of my 83 back in '96 and that temp gauge rarely passes over that
>led
>in the center, even when really hot. OK, sure, I could have catastrophic
>failure soon but I got more years out of that motor than many people that
>bought these vans new. Why haven't I changed the fluid? It's one of those
>"if it ain't broke don't fix it things". Sure, I'm ruffling a few
>feathers
>with that but I've gotten many good years out of my van. I'm convinced 1%
>of the mechanics out there, and that includes VW dealers, know how to
>bleed
>the air out. VW could have saved themselves allot of new heads and
>rebuilds
>if they only taught their shops how to bleed a Vanagon. It takes hours,
>not
>many people want to do that.
>
>Fire away.
>
>Bryan
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