Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:39:59 -0400
Reply-To: Kenneth Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Kenneth Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: 1987 VAN IDLE
In-Reply-To: <001001c80f91$8eb1ca30$0301a8c0@stuart>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I would check your throttle position switch first as this can be
sensitive to heat if it is just barely out of adjustment. The Bentley
has the procedure but here it is in a nutshell:
Have the van shut off.
Standing at the back of the van over the engine move the throttle
linkage with your hand to full throttle position.
At this point you should hear a small click noise.
Now move it slowly back to idle position and right when you reach that
point you should also hear the small click noise.
If you don't hear it at idle position then the switch needs to be adjusted.
If you look directly down at the throttle body with a flashlight you
will see a metal plate sticking out from the bottom on the side that is
toward the rear of the van.
It has two allen head bolts in it that are very small. One is in a slot
and the other is next to it.
To adjust the throttle position switch loosen the bolt that is in the
slot just a little so it can move.
Now turn the other bolt and you will see the first one moving in the slot.
Turn it so that the one in the slot moves back and forth.
As you get closer to the left side of the slot you should here the
switch start to make the click noise.
That is what you want.
Move it a hair to the left beyond where you hear the noise and then lock
the bolt that is in the slot.
Now try moving the throttle with your hand again. You should hear both
clicks now if it is adjusted properly.
If you can't get it to adjust this way you can remove the throttle body
from the intake and flip it upside down.
Now you will see the bottom of the throttle body where the switch is
located. You can tweak the very end of the metal finger that actuates
the switch so that it pushes against the cam more.
Now flip it back over and test it again.
If the switch just doesn't click at all no matter what you do to it then
you should get a new one and a new cam as well. We sell those if you
need one. If the switch does click but you are still having the problem
test the switch electrically with an ohm meter at the plug for the
switch (located on the PS intake air runner). It should rear 0 ohms
when the switch is closed (at idle or full throttle). If it doesn't
then it is bad and should be replaced.
Most of the time this switch is the culprit of idle problems. If all of
these tests are passed and you are still having idling problems I would
check for vacuum leaks and then start thinking about the idle air valve
and idle stabilizer. They are very expensive parts though and many
folks rush to buy them before even testing the switch and thereby spend
a bunch of money replacing something that isn't broken. A few minutes
troubleshooting can save you a bunch of money.
Hope this helps,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Jeff Clayman wrote:
> I have an 87 2.1 with a/t and my engine seems to get stuck in fast idle after driving on the highway at 3000 rpm for 30 mins or so. In drive at a stop it idles at 1500 or so then kicks up to 2000 rpm in neutral? Anybody know the trouble shooting algorhythm?
>
> Jeff
>
>
