Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 13:23:04 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Head bolts, studs turning?
In-Reply-To: <472246F5.4010702@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
A type IV air cooled VW engine is just a 'bigger' air cooled vw engine -
it's very normal to put it on a traditional vw engine stand. It is a little
heavy for ones designed for the standard 1600 type engine, but it's very
normal to mount one that way for working on it.
I would say if the studs unscrew from the block, no big deal.
You can watch the stud where it enters the block right next to the cylinder
barrel.
( waterboxer is a different story, they can break off way down in the block
and it's a real not-fun thing to deal with ).
I use a mini-vice grips to unscrew those screws.
Also, on any stuck fastener, whack it hard and sharply with a hammer or
hammer and punch first. This has an amazing affect of 'waking up the
threads' and makes things like 80 % easier to unscrew.
Personally I could hardly say I 'admire' vw engineering. Perhaps if you
appreciate cheapness, but their engines, many of them .......'slightly
evolved lawn mower engines' I'd have to say.
And I'm quite sure that after they were all done and proud of the design,
they took another look and said 'oh shit, we forgot the alternator !
....where are we going to put that ?"
And the idea of running a squirrel cage blower off the alternator pulley to
boost heating system air flow .......what were they thinking ? I don't
think all vanagon Type IV engines use this system, but some sure do. Looks
like something to cool the alternator, but it ain't.
Good luck on your project !~
Scott
www.turbovans.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
vanagonvw
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 12:59 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Head bolts, studs turning?
Hi folks,
I am working the engine on my 81 air cooled.
I have my engine out, and in a place where I can start digging in and
replacing the head(s) I wish I had an engine stand, but I am not sure
one would work without a bellhousing. Anyone ever try to rig an engine
stand to the case? Dunno if it would be a good idea.
For those who have pulled the heads, I am not quite ready to unbolt the
head, but I did put a socket on the top four and twist a bit, and they
all turned slightly, without too much effort, and then it got really
hard, so I figured that was enough and I would go back to pulling tin,
and doing the exhaust side of things.
Will the studs turn? I have PB blasted the bolts, and will continue to
do so, but they are pretty rusty, and it wouldn't suprise me to find
that they are so tight, that the studs start to turn.
Is that likely, and if so, what should I do about it, and how to
proceed. I ask ahead of time, as I will probably be doing that part late
at night, and there will be no one to ask, so I appreciate any and all
advice in that area.
I have to put in a positive review for a Crafstman Tool called "Bolt
Out" without which, I would never have gotten the tin screws out of
most of the main piece that covers the cylinder on the top. After
cursing and swear, and doing all I know how, to get the last two SOB's
out, I got the right size "socket" from the kit, hammered it over the
now mangled screw head, and it pretty well turned that thing right out.
Made me very happy :-) For as much as I admire VW engineering, the fact
that those fasteners are screws rather than nuts pretty well proves that
not everyone who designed the product knew what they were doing.
<shrugh> It appears to me, that the worst part of the job is getting
those screws out and getting the tin out of the way, and then back on.
PITA, no matter who says its not a big deal.
John
P.S. do water cooled also have studs the same as the air cooled?
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