Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 20:10:08 -0700
Reply-To: Reinhard Vehring <rvehring@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Reinhard Vehring <rvehring@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: coolant leak oil cooler to water pump
In-Reply-To: <cc2.1a6462b5.3455c42a@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Thanks for all the replies everyone.
So why not just run a flexible hose from the oil
cooler directly to the pump? Two clamps instead of
four. What's the point of the steel U?
Wouldn't it be great if car engines had decent
fittings like swagelok for coolant hoses? That way one
could make nice hose assemblies with crimped fittings
at the ends. Even better, hard-plumb the thing with
stainles steel pipes. Yes, more expensive, but pretty
much guaranteed leak-free for the next hundred years.
Have fun,
Reinhard
--- Frank Condelli <RAlanen@AOL.COM> wrote:
> In a message dated 27/10/2007 10:15:30 P.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,
> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>
> Dear listees,
> has anyone found a good solution for the connection
> from the oil cooler to the top of the water pump?
> My
> syncro engine has a hose elbow, a section of metal
> tube and another straight hose section there.
> Pretty
> complicated, four clamps, hardly accessible right
> next
> to the exhaust. I can't get the connection of the
> elbow to the pipe to stop leaking. I already have
> new
> hoses, cleaned the tube, put spring clamps on.
> Still
> leaking. I guess being so close to the exhaust gives
> it a pretty high heat load. Any good solutions to
> this? Or am I missing something simple here? I
> would
> like to put something in plave that is absolutely
> bullet-proof. I don't like coolant leaks out in the
> woods.
>
> Reinhard
>
>
>
>
>
> Reinhard, from the oil cooler there should be an
> elbow hose, PN: 025 121
> 058G to metal pipe PN: 025 121 065 to straight hoe
> PN: 025 121 058J. to get the
> best connection possible here the pipe must be in
> good non corroded
> condition, POR-15ed is best, the hose end on the
> cooler should have the proper sized
> spring clamp and all three of the other connections
> should have SS full
> circle screw type hose clamps with the curved edges
> to prevent cutting into the
> hose. VW originally used one time use SS full
> circle squeeze clamps here.
> They are good but a PITA if you need to remove and
> reinstall the connection for
> some reason. The screw clamps should be tightened
> again after the engine has
> warmed up fully. I also like to use Loctight Grey
> RTV sealant on the hose
> to aluminum nipple connections and hose to metal
> nipple connections which may
> not be needed if the metal nipples have been
> POR-15ed.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Condelli
> Almonte, Ontario, Canada
> '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) )
> _Frank Condelli & Associates_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html)
> - Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa
> Valley
> _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm)
> _BusFusion_
> (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW
> Camper
> camping event, Almonte, ON, June 07 ~ 10, 2007
>
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