Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 00:33:25 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter performance-Oil Testing
In-Reply-To: <E1IpZYc-0006i9-CG@elasmtp-banded.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
I started doing the oil testing on a regular basis after purchasing my
current motor home. I started with the Caterpillar S.O.S (schedule oil
sampling and have used both oil and coolant tests. Basically, you get a
sample kit which includes a bottle, label, tubing, and an outer bottle
which also includes postage to the lab. Single kits are about $16 and in
bulk you can get down to about $13 a test.
If you need to draw a sample, you can also get a vacuum pump that attaches
to the sample bottle and tubing that comes with each kit. They require
that you use separate pumps for oils and antifreeze. Even though the fluid
being tested should not touch the pump, they want to make sure there is no
cross contamination as glycol in oil and oil in coolant is the most
important and sensitive part of testing.
The oil testing includes some of the additives, and common contaminants
and wear metals. They also heat the oil to 100C and measure viscosity.
They also measure the oil condition for signs of oxidation and nitration.
Yes, oil can wear out.
Antifreeze will be tested for additives, concentration, contamination and
overall condition. For engines that need it, they measure PH and tell you
if supplemental coolant additives need to be added.
The Cat web site will have some information. The lab is in Connecticut and
the person to contact is Heather Hart. She can be reached at 860-594-4860.
Tell her I sent you, she remembers me.
A recent cool thing is that they now have an on line tracking program. Not
only are your results sent via e-mail, they can be reviewed on line after
they set up an account for you. Free.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Max Wellhouse
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 8:18 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Oil Filter performance
Dennis: If you have time, could you tutor us mortals with the oil
analysis process. I've always thought that you could buy your own
strips of test paper and soak it in the oil and get quickie results,
but that doesn't sound like what's going on here. Maybe I should
check out Wikipedia or something.
I once owned an Oberg filter system fro my 79 loaf,but the housing
apparently warped slightly and the two halves leaked. I'm not sure
if they still are in business or not, but I bought it from Gene
Berg(no relation to the company). The filter screen was stainless
steel and the oring on the outside was the seal. I think they
improved the housing after I bought mine.
DM&FS
At 10:24 PM 11/5/2007, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>While many folk speculate or are convinced that Mann or Mahle filters are
>the only way to go, I have always had doubts that any filter is all that
>much better than another. The one thing that has not been presented here
>was actual facts on a filters ability to remove dirt. As some of you are
>aware I have become familiar and am now a true believer on regular oil
>analysis. This is a requirement for warranty for the Cat engine and
>Allison transmission in my motor home to allow extended drains.
>
>
>
>Back In March 2004, I obtained a 1988 Fox from the original owner. It had
>only 14,470 mile on it. I changed all the fluids, using synthetic oil.
The
>tranny got Mobil 1, SHC 75w-90 and the engine got Mobil 1, 0w-40 and a
>Fram TG2870A filter.
>
>
>
>6,000 miles later I took an oil sample and sent it out for test. Results
>for wear metal were as follows. Copper was 20, Iron 20, Lead 8, Silica
>(dirt) 19. oil condition rated "A".
>
>At 13,500 miles on the oil, the numbers were slightly higher , 36, 66,
35,
>21 with a recommendation to change the oil and filter due to wear
>particles. Condition "B". This took me by surprise as I usually get a
>suggestion to change oil based on oxidation, nitration, or in the case of
>the Diesel engine soot loading.
>
>So I changed the oil and filter, again using the Mobil1 0w-40 and Fram TG
>filter. I also replaced the air filter.
>
>~11,000 miles (one year later) I did the oil testing again and got
similar
>results. Condition "B". So I changed the oil and filter except this time
I
>used the Mahle OC47.
>
>My wife has been using the car a lot so we quickly did 11,000 miles and I
>did the testing again. The results were alarming. Condition "C".
>
>Copper was up at 78, Iron at 115, Lead at 100, and Si at 53. This with
>only 53,000 miles on the engine.
>
>I changed the air filter and also the oil and filter. I am now trying the
>Mobil 1 filter.
>
>We'll see what happens.
>
>
>
>Dennis
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