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Date:         Sat, 10 Nov 2007 17:39:17 EST
Reply-To:     Dvdclarksn@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Clarkson <Dvdclarksn@AOL.COM>
Subject:      follow up on charcoal canister/vent valve issues (long-sorry)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Greetings and salutations listees. Since my last post with questions on the charcoal canister and vent valve I got several replies from Dennis and others; all of which are much appreciated. I also researched the Vanagon.com archives and checked Bentley. I decided to test the valve per Bentley (works correctly) and then proceeded to remove the charcoal canister (worth the 5 minutes it takes IMHO). I then tapped, rapped and applied various percussive persuasion to the canister until air passed through from the bottom to the top with much less resistance. You can beat on it with discretion as it is not metal and will not dent but do exercise some prudence as the canister is plastic and may crack if too much force is applied. My van has 245k and nothing has ever been touched with this area of the emissions components so I was pleasantly surprised at the fine condition of the canister. The valve is only inches from the canister BTW-another question that I had. The end result was after running the engine for over one hr. and then shutting it off, the tank did not de-pressurize or make the "donk" sound after about 15-20 seconds as it did before. I also removed the fuel cap and did not hear the "whoosh" sound. I know now that my tank is air-tight after replacing all of the lines and grommets and that the seal on the gas cap is good based on the pressurization symptoms that I experienced. After correcting the clogged canister issues the engine seemed to have better acceleration and performance. Maybe this is "psychomechanical wishful thinking" or maybe the fuel pump has better fuel delivery along with the fuel pressure regulator working more efficiently. The fuel pump it would seem, should have better operating pressure as not having to work against the vacuum created in the tank. Synopsis: if you are hearing your tank depressurize 15-30 seconds after shutting off your engine, take the time to check your canister vent valve and the canister for proper flow. If either cannot be corrected replace one or both as needed. It would seem to reason that not doing so could indirectly effect fuel flow to the injectors and put additional strain on the fuel pump. A fuel pump costs around $195.00 and a new canister and vent valve from Van Cafe is about $108.00. If my logic on the benefits and possible failures is flawed here, will someone with more knowledge and experience correct any disinformation disseminated to the list from this post? As always, your results (YMMV) may vary but it works for me.

David Clarkson 90 Westy (245k-getting fuel with much less effort now it seems)

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