Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 22:21:20 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Girling vs ATE Calipers
In-Reply-To: <20071114004701.4C3F414494D2@mail.davidellis.biz>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Both brakes have the same size pistons and use the same pads. There is no
noticeable difference in stopping power. Pad and shoe selection is the
most important part of brake performance. The best rear shoes are those
supplied by the dealer. Bring money. They are the only riveted, 6mm thick,
aggressive metallic lining available. If you bought your shoes at a local
parts store you got junk and it is also likely you have the linings
reversed or in the wrong position for leading/trailing operation. Some
vendors sell new Jurid which is a good quality but still mostly an organic
lining and bonded.
Next step for the rear is proper set up and drum diameter. It is common
for only part of the shoes to contact the drum. The lower shoe mounts are
removable and 14mm shims can be used to move the shoe rest out. 2-3mm will
do it. Check fit. You don't want the shoes wedged in there.
Next is proper assembly of the springs and top adjuster. On the end that
goes over the hand brake lever, the longer fork goes into the shoe slot.
Shorter fork goes outside. Now take up slack in the adjuster. Place brake
cable on lever. Adjust brake cable to just touch or have 1/16" play where
it contacts the inside of the adjuster. This is the final brake cable
adjustment. The wheel will adjust both the service and handbrake as
needed. If you tighten the cable after the drum is in place things won't
really work as designed.
For the front brakes, you want pads with high friction ratings of "FF" or
"FG" Some "EE" work well like the "Metal Masters" but many long life pads
just won't have enough friction to stop you. Soft pads may have more
friction at lower pressures but they won't last and can fade and leave a
glaze on the rotors causing pulsations. I have also had some bad
experience with ceramics.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Jonce Fancher
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 7:47 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Girling vs ATE Calipers
Hi all
Just another question to throw out there.
How would one know if they had Girling or ATE Calipers on theyre Vanagon?
Of course if you can read the caliper that gives it away but say you dont
know or
cant tell. what gives one away to being a certain manufacturer??
My vanagon will stop but not like I think it should. Im going to swap out
the hoses since im sure they are OE but the calipers bite but if you Romp
on the brake
you sorta just stop like you did with a standard slow down.
I did swap out the Booster that did away with the Hiss that you would get
when pressing real hard. Also the Master cylinder was leaking a small
amount into the
Booster at the time. So the Master and booster was replaced. Stops but not
on a dime. I know it is heavy and bulky and Ive looked into the Big Brake
kit and
have most of what I need to make it go.
But My 84 vanagon with only 24k stops so good it will toss you out of your
seat. I know there is a bit of a wheight diff since it is a 7 pass vs the
westi. But still it
should bite down instead of just slow down.
Any suggestions on my ramblings? The rears have new wheel cylinders and I
think hoses. If not it will get them this winter.
C-ya Jonce
Jonce Fancher
56 Single Cab
66 Sunroof Bug
66 Variant Squareback
66 Porsche 912
71 Sunroof Bus
84 Vanagon "Gottfried"
85 Vanagon Westi
2003 10 Passenger Sprinter
Fancher's Upholstery Inc. - www.fanchers.com
Not-A-VW Club- http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jaransont3/notavwclub/
