Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 00:17:36 -0800
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: What do I need? If 2.1 something to watch out for
In-Reply-To: <4748C8EA.9060904@verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi,
I didn't catch what year it is, but if it's an 86 or later with 2.1
waterboxer engine,
Or diesel vanagon - both of these have the oil filter mounted onto an oil
cooler, which is held on with a nut.
It's possible for the oil cooler retaining nut to get loose - you change
the oil filter, but things don't tighten up right, it seems ok, later out on
the road it leaks.......and ....you know, serious engine damage can result.
Make sure that but nut is tight.
Another thing to be careful about, if you do pre-fill an oil filter, be very
very careful as you are adding oil to the engine side of the filter element,
any spec of dirt there, gets pumped right to the bearings.
Next....for all cars.....it's been known to have the old oil filter rubber
seal stick to the engine, rather than come off with the old oil filter. The
technician screws on the new oil filter and there are two rubber seals on
there. It doesn't leak at first, then out on the road .........it leaks and
engine blows up etc. So always check for that - even new car dealerships
have made the 'double oil filter rubber seal' mistake and seized up engines.
You increase your odds of mistakes like the 3 above happening when you take
any car to a car tech class of students. I can't really advise it.
There are actually about 15 very detaily details ( or at least how I do oil
and filter changes ) to pay attention to or attend to in a simple oil and
filter change, and about 20 ways to screw it up.
Last tip for this post - I change the filter first. It's oily when you pull
the old filter, so no need to manual apply oil to the new oil filter rubber
seal. So I get that part done first, then pull the drain plug and let it
sit while I do other things for a while. It's not good to let them sit
overnight draining. Just 20 minutes when warm, then refill, and run and
check.
Scott
www.turbovans.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Mike Collum
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 4:59 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: What do I need?
That's the one.
Mike
PB wrote:
> Would this be the drain plug crush washer?
> http://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=N0138492
> If not, do you have the part number for either Bus Depot or Vanagain?
> I'm about to put in an order.
> Patti
> ********************
>
> On Nov 24, 2007 4:40 PM, Mike Collum <collum@verizon.net
> <mailto:collum@verizon.net>> wrote:
>
> Actually, Patti, Vanagons do better when the oil is between the Min
and
> Max marks. Even when I change the oil I only put enough fresh oil in
to
> register about half way between them. When at the Max mark (and
> certainly when over the mark) the oil tends to froth a bit.
>
> As to changing oil, there are some oil filters to avoid. I always use
a
> Mann or Mahle filter. I replace the drain plug crush washer every
time
> I remove the drain plug. They are single use items. If reused, the
> tendency is to overtighten the plug so as to prevent oil leaks and the
> threads in the case can be stripped. My FLAPS doesn't carry the right
> size washers so I order a bunch of them at a time from places like
> BusDepot or Vanagain at the same time as I order filters.
>
> Many folks don't realize that the oil fill tube telescopes out a few
> inches. Remove the oil cap and pull the inner section of the tube
> outward until it clicks. I still use a long skinny funnel but the
fact
> that the fill tube extends sure makes it easier.
>
> All that said, changing the oil and filter is pretty much like what
> you'd on any engine. Remove drain plug and drain oil into a suitable
> container. Replace crush washer on plug. Put fresh oil into the new
> filter (about 3/4 of the way up) and screw it on. Replace drain plug.
> Put fresh oil in being careful not to over fill.
>
> Where I am in northern Maine, I use Castrol 5W 50 oil in the winter.
> The engine would never start in the minus temperatures we experience
> otherwise. I could use it year round if it were easier to get but 20W
> 50 is easy to get so that's what I use in warmer weather. Another
good
> choice is Mobil 1 15W 50.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> PB wrote:
> > Another question: are there any "quirks" about changing the oil in
a
> > vanagon? My oil is about halfway between the full and add oil
> mark on
> > the dipstick. I'd like to change the oil and filter instead of
> adding
> > more. The automotive technology class at my high school does oil
> > changes, so if it's simple and routine, I'll let them do it. Of
> course
> > I'd remove the rear cushions and tarp everything in sight! I've
had
> > work done in high school classes. The work is usually good, but
> there
> > are often a few oil smudges where they don't belong.
> > Patti
> > *********************************
> > On Nov 24, 2007 4:07 PM, PB < pbrattan@gmail.com
> <mailto:pbrattan@gmail.com>
> > <mailto:pbrattan@gmail.com <mailto:pbrattan@gmail.com>>> wrote:
> >
> > I just noticed that spoiler. At first I thought it was part
> of the
> > bumper. It looks easy to remove. When I have a little time
> I'll go
> > under there with some screwdrivers and a flashlight and see
> how it's
> > installed. I bet that'll solve the problem. It hangs down a
> good 5
> > or 6 inches below the actual bumper.
> > Patti
> > ******************************
> >
> > On Nov 24, 2007 3:29 PM, Mike Collum <collum@verizon.net
> <mailto:collum@verizon.net>
> > <mailto:collum@verizon.net <mailto:collum@verizon.net>> >
wrote:
> >
> > Patti,
> >
> > Your '90 has (had?) a spoiler (sometimes called an air dam)
> > below the
> > bumper that is probably what is dragging. You can remove
> that
> > spoiler
> > if that's the problem.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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