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Date:         Thu, 6 Dec 2007 07:11:52 -0800
Reply-To:     "Chris S." <mrpolak@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Chris S." <mrpolak@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: How do you get a gremlin out of a Vanagon?
Comments: To: Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Ken, You're a gentleman and scholar! I love reading your posts because I know I'll learn something.

Chris S.

----- Original Message ---- From: Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2007 9:13:37 AM Subject: Re: How do you get a gremlin out of a Vanagon?

As these vans age things do fail that you would normally not think of. However I would start with the basics: Do a vacuum test. The manifold pressure/vacuum should be around 15 and steady at idle. If the needle is not steady then your valves are not adjusted properly. Check compression. Check valve adjustment. If I am having a problem I adjust mine to zero lash (just touching at TDC on each cylinder). Check throttle position switch to be sure it is adjusted properly and closing at idle position (also no resistance). Check timing with a light. In order to check the timing you will have to bypass the idle control unit by unplugging the two round plugs from the unit and then plugging them into each other. I have found that if the idle is still fluctuating after you do this then it is usually a vacuum leak somewhere. I usually set my timing to 7 deg BTDC even though the book says something like 5 deg ATDC. Even if you just change the timing to TDC you will see an improvement in the overall power and smoothness of the acceleration. (Note: I am speaking to a 1.9l engine owner, the 2.1l is already set at 7 degs BTDC). Check for vacuum leaks. You can use a can of staring fluid. Spray around the intake. If you hear the idle go up then you have found your leak. Check your ground connections. There should be a ground strap connected from the firewall below the coil to the head on the driver's side. It needs to be there, and also the connections on both ends needs to be clean and the strap itself needs to have zero resistance. Be sure the rest of the ground connectors on the head and the firewall are in good shape. If the ends look iffy you can replace them with new ones.

If you have gotten to this point and you are still scratching your head then it is time to start checking wiring in the engine wiring harness. Many times the wiring for the Temp II sensor to the ECU or to ground can degrade. It will have a really high resistance and cause all sorts of running problems. You can easily check the wiring with an ohm meter and a wiring diagram from the Bentley manual.

I hope this helps you. I have been down this road many times and usually it is something very simple and not expensive. If you need any more parts or advice feel free to call or email me.

Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com

Jeff Duckworth wrote: > Help! > > I purchased a 1985 VW Vanagon recently and there seems to be a gremlin in it. First, let me say, I'm a die hard VW driver. This is my 4th VW I have owned and perhaps it is my favorite in many aspects. > > I bought the van about a month and a half ago. I have a 5 year old son and just recently had a new addition to the family, so I wanted something a little larger than my 71 beetle. The Vanagon fit the bill and was a VW to boot! When I saw the van, I fell in love with it...even though it is a fixer upper. It included a log of all it's adventures and repairs. It was well loved, except for the most recent owner. He didn't really seem to know what he was doing or know how to take care of it. That being said... > > When I got the Van, it ran great, only when it got warmed up if you let off the gas, the rpms would bottom out and the engine would cut off. Needless to say, I have become a heel-toe expert. I sat out valiantly to fix this problem. > > New Oxygen sensor. > New spark plugs. > New rotor button. > New temp sensor. > New temp sender. > Rebuilt and sealed leaks in exhaust. > > You know the drill. But after all this, the van drives great until...it runs awhile and is warmed up. It doesn't do it all the time, but 1 out of 3 times, if I let off the gas, the rpms flatline and it dies. Sometimes it will flatline and shoot back up, over and over until it dies. > > Basically, it is idling erratically and sometimes cutting out when it is warmed up. > > Does anyone have any suggestions to magically remove this gremlin? > > Also, a friend of mine that is a mechanic whome won't touch a VW, listened to the van and thought that I might have a burnt valve. Is there a way to check that? > > Thanks for any help, > Jeff > > > --------------------------------- > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. > > >

____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs


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