Date:         Sat, 1 Dec 2007 20:33:49 -0500
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
Comments:     RFC822 error: <W> MESSAGE-ID field duplicated. Last occurrence
              was retained.
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: two questions: brake pads, ball joints
Comments: To: Allan Streib <streib@CS.INDIANA.EDU>
In-Reply-To:  <76ED3EF6-6022-4FCF-BF67-4DE81A94412D@cs.indiana.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The front rotors start at 15 mm with a wear limit of 13mm. If a 1/2 "
wrench (12.5mm) fits over them they are shot.

You do want metallics both for heat transfer and to keep the rotor
friction surface clean and free of glazing. Most bouncy or pulsating
brakes are due to glaze or an unevenly worn surface, not actual warping.

Pads are rated for friction with letter codes. Most organics will be "FF"
and the longer life metalics are usually "EE". The dealer supplied pads
are mettalics with a friction rating of "FG". They stop, last, and make a
lot of dust. Next in line of success has been the PBR Metal masters. I
have had some luck with other aftermarket pads but performance long term
has been spotty.

If you do not know when the calipers and hoses have been changed, it is
time. Too often brake jibs are short lived due to the hydraulics failing.

Boots are not the only reason to change ball joints. They need to be
checked for wear. Any looseness is reason for concern on the uppers. 1/8"
or more on lowers is a practical limit. Check the front radius rod
bushings.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Allan Streib
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 6:50 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: two questions: brake pads, ball joints

Continuing the sorting out of my new '91 GL.  In preparation for new
tires, I have all the wheels off and got my first good look at the
brakes.

Front pads are down enough that I might as well change them.  Have
not had the rear drums off yet.  Rotors have some light surface rust
from sitting but look good otherwise -- have not measured them yet,
what is the minimum spec?

Brake pads: looks like there are an array of options.  I checked the
Wiki to see if there was an agreed-upon "best" and did not find any.

So -- Pagid, ATE, PBR, TRW?  I don't really want to run metallic, and
I'm leaning to the Pagid based on what I've read.  PBR Deluxe sound
like they might not perform as well.  Could not really find much info
on the ATE and TRW pads.  Thoughts?

Also, I noticed that the right upper ball joint boot is torn.  The
left upper looks OK visually, but would it make sense to go ahead and
do both so that I don't have to worry about it for a while?

I understand the lowers are a press-in deal, do they generally wear
the same as the uppers?

Allan