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Date:         Sat, 8 Dec 2007 21:47:36 -0500
Reply-To:     Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Subject:      Re: Ball joints and steering rack
Comments: To: Allan Streib <streib@CS.INDIANA.EDU>
In-Reply-To:  <8E208A32-6B3B-48E4-B9FD-63F7E316D120@cs.indiana.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Lay your new (rebuilt?) steering rack on a level surface with the attachment points down. If, with the rubber bushings installed with equal amounts sticking out, it rocks rather than stays level then it would be a good idea to get some big washers to shim it so that there will be no stress and/or that a couple of the bushings don't get pushed so far that the rack ends up metal to metal at the frame.

I found that an ordinary railroad spike worked great (happened to have one) for spreading the steering shaft U-Joint coupler (power steering vans) so that it would slide off the splined shaft on the old rack.

I removed the windshield washer tank so I could get to the disk coupling at the front of the van. Removing the bolts from that end of the shaft first allows easy removal of the U-Joint at the rack.

Once the steering shaft is removed, you can spin the steering wheel 360º. It spins like a bar stool. That said, once everything is back together, the easy way to line up the steering wheel is to remove it and reposition. Much easier than trying to adjust at the tie rods.

Mike

Allan Streib wrote: > The parts are here, and I will soon be tackling the replacement of > upper ball joints and the steering rack on my '91 Vanagon GL. > > I'll study the Bentley, but does anyone have any tips or tricks that > might not be obvious, considering I've not done this job before. > > Thanks, > > Allan >


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