Date:         Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:04:25 -0500
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Multimeter recommendation
Comments: To: mikes@FLATSURFACE.COM
In-Reply-To:  <20071218114704.C40981165C3@hamburg.alientech.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Of course if you should use the cheapo meter in your home at 120/240 volts
and soemthing messes up and the fuses do not clear the fault and it blows up
in your hands/face, you will have comfort knowing you saved money. Good
meters and fuses cost money for a reason. Granted, for automative use the
risk is minimal both for safety and accuaracy but let's not make fun of good
expensinve tools and meters. They do have thier purpose and Fluke does make
some really good stuff.  In the industrial world, you would be surprised
what can happen to meters.

Dennis


>From: Mike S <mikes@FLATSURFACE.COM>
>Reply-To: Mike S <mikes@FLATSURFACE.COM>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Multimeter recommendation
>Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 06:45:28 -0500
>
>At 09:21 PM 12/17/2007, tom ring wrote...
>>All I have to say is, you get what you pay for.  A Fluke will last 10
>>to 1000
>>times longer than a 10 or 20 dollar meter,
>
>Sure, because it's protected by a couple of $5 fuses, available only
>from a specialty supplier. Buy a $10 el-cheapo, and you might have to
>buy a whole new meter if you connect it wrong (that is, if it's 50 cent
>hardware store fuse doesn't blow).
>
>And if you don't need new elastomeric display contacts, a common Fluke
>problem, add $10 for repair (if you do it yourself), instead of $10 for
>a new meter.
>
>And if you can still close the case because the plastic threads aren't
>stripped due to the lack of a battery door which the cheap one has.