Gang,

Just to answer my curious mind, you guys mention a "no no" for compression fittings. I found this site on the topic (vw too!) and he is juntioning new and old lines together: http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm

He talks about compression fittings, is this the "no-no" you metion?

Shawn

On Dec 24, 2007 10:05 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

> Hey Shawn, you've seen Ken's post by now. Metric brake lines are > 'findable' > sometimes. > A nice small bending too is nice to have. > With luck you can find a 'bolt on' metric line of close to the right > length. > If it has to be a little too long that's fine if you mount it properly. > And as ken said, using compression sleeve junctions is never kosher in > brake > lines. > If you end up making a line yourself and need to flare the ends, > There are two kinds of flare - single and double, or bubble as ken called > it. > A single flare tool costs 10 bucks, but will not work at all for your > system. > If you need a double flare end, sometimes you can get a shop with that > capability to do it for you for a few bucks. > Hopefully you'll be able to find a metric line of the right length and > size. > > And you should check all the other lines, though it might be hard o see > through the rust and crude. > Scott > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > robert feller > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 6:36 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: lost brake line... > > Thanks Scott, that is the info I was looking for. I was hoping it didn't > run > all the way to the master cylinder and thus some real fun with a line that > far! > > So tell me about brake lines.All the same different diameters? Easily > mailable it seems from you comments. Any special little bender tools to > get > the turns "just right"? > > Shawn > > On Dec 24, 2007 8:52 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> > wrote: > > > Just heat the line upstream of the hole, and bend it over and hammer it > > flat, so it's closed off. > > Then proceed on 3 brakes. > > Or...........the line has to go to a T junction or some fitting. . > Find > > that, perhaps two feet or so from the left front area where it joins > onto > > the hose, remove it, take it to a flaps and match it up, replace and > > bleed. > > > > 'medium hard' , that's how hard it is to do - lol ! Since it sounds > like > > it > > failed from rust, the ends might be very, very rusted and you should > start > > spraying those with PB Blaster penetrating oil right now. And do it > like > > every few hours until you start to work on it. > > > > You absolutely need a tubing nut wrench. 11 mm I think. > > Scott > > www.turbovans.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf > Of > > robert feller > > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 5:30 PM > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Subject: lost brake line... > > > > Nice, I own three cars and all three had something happen to them this > > week. > > Relying on the syncro to get me around and to work...but tonight the > pedal > > went to the floor. > > > > Looks like a Ohio rust and a break line went in the front left wheel > well. > > Corrosion beyond belief. > > > > Although it's current location makes it almost impossible to work on I'm > a > > strong DIYer. How rough is repair of the front brake line going to be > and > > what does the procedure entail? The Bentley is not currently where I am > at > > to review. > > > > -- > > Shawn Feller > > Ohio > > www.carboncow.com > > > > > > > -- > Shawn Feller > Ohio > www.carboncow.com > >

-- Shawn Feller Ohio www.carboncow.com