Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 11:06:45 -0800
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Overcooling Hypothesis--Long
In-Reply-To: <vanagon%2007122711451825@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Your basic thinking sounds sound, lol. Or at least a good 'theory path' to
pursue.
What I would do is rig a switch such that you can trick the system from the
cockpit, like take the idle switch out of the picture for long cold
descents.
Like if the idle switch is open, the ecu won't know it's a idle and above
1,500 rpm, and will continue operating the injectors a little.
You could also try blocking off radiator air inlet, like all big trucks do
in the winter. You should have your heater hoses insulated, and run the
warmest thermostat you can find.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Geza Polony
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 8:44 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Overcooling Hypothesis--Long
I've been wondering about Vanagon Overcooling Syndrome for a long time now,
and just came up with an idea as I was going downhill in Northern
California.
Here's the syndrome: it's cold out, you're going downhill for a long ways,
and there is just nothing you can do to get the coolant warm. It's not a
gauge problem; the coolant really isn't warm, and your heaters don't work,
and the van runs bad.
Must be a thermostat stuck open! you say; but no, at home doing the pot o'
water test, the tstat works perfectly. You put it back in; the van still
overcools. This cannot be; yet it is.
Here's my idea. When you're coasting downhill, you're using the engine as a
brake. This means that above 1500 RPM, with the idle switch closed, the
engine isn't getting any gas, as the ECU has shut the injectors down. If it
isn't getting any gas, it also isn't producing any heat. The engine is
functioning as a brake, but there isn't any combustion, and so, after a
period of 10 minutes or so in freezing temperatures, the coolant loses
temperature, and your gauge is way off the edge of the scale.
I tested this by going downhill, engine warm, and taking my foot off the gas
to coast. I could see the gauge move colder before my eyes. Give it a little
gas, and the engine warms up. This is kind of tricky from a driving
standpoint, but it works.
I'm talking about an '84 1.9 with the twin switches on the throttle
body--maybe in later years VW corrected this with new switch type, maybe a
remap of the ECU?
Anyway, such is my thinking. Anyone who has experienced this knows it is a
real problem in the winter months. Hope this helps.
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