Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 21:46:34 -0500
Reply-To: robert feller <syncro.carboncow@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: robert feller <syncro.carboncow@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: lost brake line...
In-Reply-To: <47706C16.3010906@westyventures.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Karl, more great info. The pedal does go to floor (as expected) and of
course the other circuit does seem to stop (some) but got worse with every
pump. It will continue to hold fluid for that circuit if I move the van a
few miles down the road to a garage to work on it? (with help of the p-brake
of course!)
You are 100% on the vice grip comment from what I can see it's a mess at the
support behind the wheel! Will I most likly destroy what it's connected to?
Will I wind up replacing the line from the caliper to the so called
"junction body"?
Sorry to hit all these "what if's" but the wife would kill me if I was
crawling around outside tonight under a van! plus no Bentley!
Shawn
On Dec 24, 2007 9:33 PM, Karl Mullendore <groups@westyventures.com> wrote:
> Scott...have you ever been up close with an east-coast/rust-belt Vanagon
> brake line? It ain't purty. The flare nut wrench will spin right around.
> I think he'll need some small, good-quality vice-grips. Almost every
> rusty one I've seen had nothing left to use a wrench on. Def. use the PB
> Blaster though. If you should be so lucky, then yes, the 11mm flare nut
> wrench if the size.
>
> Shouldn't be too difficult doing the front ones, Shawn, it's the rear
> that are a PITA.
>
> I've driven 500 miles with a blown line before...just gotta plan WAY
> ahead and use the park/emergency brake a lot! You still have half the
> brake circuit functional with one blown line.
>
> Good luck...
>
> Karl
>
> Scott Daniel - Shazam wrote:
> > Just heat the line upstream of the hole, and bend it over and hammer it
> > flat, so it's closed off.
> > Then proceed on 3 brakes.
> > Or...........the line has to go to a T junction or some fitting. .
> Find
> > that, perhaps two feet or so from the left front area where it joins
> onto
> > the hose, remove it, take it to a flaps and match it up, replace and
> bleed.
> >
> > 'medium hard' , that's how hard it is to do - lol ! Since it sounds
> like it
> > failed from rust, the ends might be very, very rusted and you should
> start
> > spraying those with PB Blaster penetrating oil right now. And do it
> like
> > every few hours until you start to work on it.
> >
> > You absolutely need a tubing nut wrench. 11 mm I think.
> > Scott
> > www.turbovans.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > Nice, I own three cars and all three had something happen to them this
> week.
> > Relying on the syncro to get me around and to work...but tonight the
> pedal
> > went to the floor.
> >
> > Looks like a Ohio rust and a break line went in the front left wheel
> well.
> > Corrosion beyond belief.
> >
> > Although it's current location makes it almost impossible to work on I'm
> a
> > strong DIYer. How rough is repair of the front brake line going to be
> and
> > what does the procedure entail? The Bentley is not currently where I am
> at
> > to review.
>
--
Shawn Feller
Ohio
www.carboncow.com
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