Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 20:14:29 -0800
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: lost brake line...
In-Reply-To: <159070990712242000n57483904m3b8f7d315345dbc9@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
No.
Compression fitting use a sleeve that slides over the end of the tube, then
the nut that tightens down on it 'compresses' so it squeezes down on the
line, and the outside of the little 'sleeve gismo' forms the 'outer' sealing
surface. So there really are two sealing surfaces, outer and inner.
With a flare, the nut jams the flare into the fitting and there is only one
sealing surface, as it's the line, and not an added part that is where the
sealing surface is.
If that makes any sense , lol ! ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: robert feller [mailto:syncro.carboncow@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 8:00 PM
To: Scott Daniel - Shazam
Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
Subject: Re: lost brake line...
I would agree to error on the side of caution with this one for sure. I do
believe (although I don't have it with me) that the brake lines are under
only hundreds of lbs of pressure, but I could be brain farting.
Now are not the connection to the valve block and brake a compression
fitting too?
On Dec 24, 2007 10:56 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com >
wrote:
Particularly in the vw world there is a lot of poor or mis-information.
The author would have you think compression fittings in brake lines are just
fine.
It's a hack repair.
Might work for a good long time even, but it's not right.
There's up to 2,000 psi I believe in brake lines.
-----Original Message-----
From: robert feller [mailto:syncro.carboncow@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 7:38 PM
To: Scott Daniel - Shazam
Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
Subject: Re: lost brake line...
Gang,
Just to answer my curious mind, you guys mention a "no no" for compression
fittings. I found this site on the topic (vw too!) and he is juntioning new
and old lines together: http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm
He talks about compression fittings, is this the "no-no" you metion?
Shawn
On Dec 24, 2007 10:05 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam < scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
wrote:
Hey Shawn, you've seen Ken's post by now. Metric brake lines are 'findable'
sometimes.
A nice small bending too is nice to have.
With luck you can find a 'bolt on' metric line of close to the right length.
If it has to be a little too long that's fine if you mount it properly.
And as ken said, using compression sleeve junctions is never kosher in brake
lines.
If you end up making a line yourself and need to flare the ends,
There are two kinds of flare - single and double, or bubble as ken called
it.
A single flare tool costs 10 bucks, but will not work at all for your
system.
If you need a double flare end, sometimes you can get a shop with that
capability to do it for you for a few bucks.
Hopefully you'll be able to find a metric line of the right length and size.
And you should check all the other lines, though it might be hard o see
through the rust and crude.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
robert feller
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 6:36 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: lost brake line...
Thanks Scott, that is the info I was looking for. I was hoping it didn't run
all the way to the master cylinder and thus some real fun with a line that
far!
So tell me about brake lines.All the same different diameters? Easily
mailable it seems from you comments. Any special little bender tools to get
the turns "just right"?
Shawn
On Dec 24, 2007 8:52 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
wrote:
> Just heat the line upstream of the hole, and bend it over and hammer it
> flat, so it's closed off.
> Then proceed on 3 brakes.
> Or...........the line has to go to a T junction or some fitting. . Find
> that, perhaps two feet or so from the left front area where it joins onto
> the hose, remove it, take it to a flaps and match it up, replace and
> bleed.
>
> 'medium hard' , that's how hard it is to do - lol ! Since it sounds like
> it
> failed from rust, the ends might be very, very rusted and you should start
> spraying those with PB Blaster penetrating oil right now. And do it like
> every few hours until you start to work on it.
>
> You absolutely need a tubing nut wrench. 11 mm I think.
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com ] On Behalf
Of
> robert feller
> Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 5:30 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: lost brake line...
>
> Nice, I own three cars and all three had something happen to them this
> week.
> Relying on the syncro to get me around and to work...but tonight the pedal
> went to the floor.
>
> Looks like a Ohio rust and a break line went in the front left wheel well.
> Corrosion beyond belief.
>
> Although it's current location makes it almost impossible to work on I'm a
> strong DIYer. How rough is repair of the front brake line going to be and
> what does the procedure entail? The Bentley is not currently where I am at
> to review.
>
> --
> Shawn Feller
> Ohio
> www.carboncow.com
>
>
--
Shawn Feller
Ohio
www.carboncow.com
--
Shawn Feller
Ohio
www.carboncow.com
--
Shawn Feller
Ohio
www.carboncow.com
