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Date:         Thu, 27 Dec 2007 10:56:48 -0800
Reply-To:     neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Internal 115V power
Comments: To: robert feller <syncro.carboncow@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <159070990712262000o731cba68rcec575779c61898f@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I'm no electrician but..... On P 97.33a of Bentley, it *appears* that 110VAC to a Westy, is bonded to the "interior socket (110V)" box and to the frame of the vehicle.

And I'm pretty sure about this part:

bonding the vans' AC system to the frame, enables the vans' circuit breaker to operate properly.

I know that somewhere in the last year, Dennis Haynes wrote of why there is a ground for the AC on a Westy (or RV).

Grounding the AC system in a van doesn't take much more work.

Personally, if I did a permanent install of AC on a van, I'd ground it to the frame.

Just my .02

Neil.

On Dec 26, 2007 8:00 PM, robert feller <syncro.carboncow@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'll let the true electricians in the crew add in why or how but the > Westies > ground the 110/115v circuit to the body with a very heavy ground. Maybe > worth looking into why any how... > > I upgraded my westy wiring and system removing the lame breaker in the > system and install a better breaker as well as GFCI. > > Shawn > > On Dec 26, 2007 10:19 PM, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote: > > > I have periodic need to have internal 115/120 Volt power available > > inside my van, and I always wind up have to string an extension cord, > > leave a door or window cacked open for the cord access, etc. I'm > > thinking of installing a 4 gang receptacle under the rear seat, with a > > metal box under the seat and the receptacles themselves faceing out from > > under the seat. It would be mounted on that board that makes for the > > storage space under the seat. For wiring, a heavy cord would be wired > > into the receptacle and strung through a hole in the slanted firewall > > under the seat into the engine bay and strung across the top of the > > engine and the plug end would be tied off right at the rear service > > hatch opening. This would allow for simply plugging in an extension > > cable at the rear of the vehicle, eliminating all that other hassle. > > > > Just wondering if there are opinions as to better arrangements, or > > things to watch out for, cautions, etc. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Regards, > > > > John Rodgers > > 88 GL Driver > > > > > > -- > Shawn Feller > Ohio > www.carboncow.com >

-- Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia - "Jaco" http://web.mac.com/tubaneil

Engine swap beginings: http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/


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