Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 14:16:39 -0800
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: air bleeding
In-Reply-To: <71d9cdf90801091332maab5b33v1977d7d4d5ff6cd6@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Actually, it's a 'bleed bolt' .........it's a 13 mm hex head bolt-looking
thing.
And it's on the left as you look at the radiator from the front.
Like it's on the passenger's side of the radiator.
There's a very nice little aftermarket real bleed valve with pipe on it that
I get, and sell sometimes. I hate having to undo that bolt .........so
messy.
Also, just changing the oil cooler hoses shouldn't make it need to be bled
so much.
Is Miguel aware of the bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing ?
Scott
www.turbovans.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Jake de Villiers
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 1:33 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: air bleeding
Top left of the rad as you're standing in front of the van. Just open it a
turn or so and wait for bubbles.
On Jan 9, 2008 1:01 PM, Michael Sullivan <sandwichhead@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Where is the bleed screw? I took off the grill and can't see it. I
> replaced my oil cooler hoses and want to bleed the system. I have a
> blinking red light on the temp gauge about 1 mnute after start up. Idels
> about 1100 rpm right now, but still cold. hanks, Michael
> 2.1 91GL 'Gringo'
>
> Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> wrote:
> How about for clarity we call the coolant bottle by the license plate the
> 'overflow bottle' ..........which is what it is, a bottle that holds what
> is
> 'overflow' from the Pressure Bottle.
> And I think you're talking about the pressure cap on the Pressure
> Bottle......( also Expansion Tank , is a pretty good descriptive term ) .
>
> Regarding the first paragraph ...............the guy sounds like a newbie,
> so let's not confuse him.
> You wrote : " The first thing you need to do is replace the one-way valve
> on
> top of your
> overflow tank. That allows low pressure in the system, which lowers the
> boiling point, and a shut-off engine can cook up enough steam to gurgle
> the
> coolant loud enough to hear inside the van, standing in front of it or
> behind it."'
>
> You make it sound like there's a valve on the top of the Pressure Bottle.
> There isn't. There's one in the cap. I'm sure you meant that valve. I call
> that the 'suck back' valve. It goes two things.......maintains up to 14
> psi
> I think to increase the boiling point of the coolant, and sucks back
> coolant
> from the overflow bottle by the license plate.
> Coolant should not be boiling, or gurgling after the engine is shut
> off. I can't think of any vanagon ever, even in 100 degrees F ambient that
> did that when things were working correctly.. Boiling or gurgling
> indicates a problem. Bleeding is the right thing to consider initially,
> though usually a 'need to bleed' indicates the beginning of a bigger
> issue.
>
>
> And those pressure caps are weak too. I always have a spare or two. It's
> easy from them to not suck coolant back in from the Overflow (license
> plate
> ) bottle.
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Jim Felder
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 11:00 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: air bleeding
>
> The first thing you need to do is replace the one-way valve on top of your
> overflow tank. That allows low pressure in the system, which lowers the
> boiling point, and a shut-off engine can cook up enough steam to gurgle
> the
> coolant loud enough to hear inside the van, standing in front of it or
> behind it.
> If it's not that, you probably have a leak, maybe a very small one that
> you
> just need to watch.
>
> Popping the grill needs only a flat-bladed screwdriver. You'll find five
> screw-head looking fasteners with the slots horizontal just below the
> upper
> chrome from one headlight to the other at the top of the grill. Turn these
> slots vertical and remove the grill. The bottom has four projections that
> fit into slots in the body. Notice where they are so you get them all
> lined
> up on reassembly.
>
> Fill the overflow tank. Warm the engine up, open all the heaters (front
> and
> back, if you have a back). When you think the engine is warmed up, (look
> at
> the needle) feel the top of the radiator. Is it cool? If so, there's air
> in
> it. Cool or not, put a wedge in the throttle and increase the RPM to about
> 2000 to get the water pump moving the coolant well.
>
> Then take a 13mm box wrench and remove the radiator bleed screw. If solid
> coolant comes out, replace immediately and put things back together. If
> air
> comes out, wait until solid coolant appears.
>
> Watch your coolant level in the back. If it gets low, refill per bentley.
>
> This should all take about 20 minutes. Check your one-way overflow valve
> first by blowing through it. It should only blow one way.
>
> Jim
>
> On Jan 3, 2008 12:12 PM, Matthew Snook wrote:
>
> > Hello all:
> >
> > I hear a gurgling sound when I turn the rig off, and I'd like to make
> sure
> > things are up to par before I leave later today. On an '84 1.9, what is
> > the
> > best way to bleed air from the cooling system? This will be my first
> > time.
> > I've never even had the grill off. How many tools will I need to buy?
> >
> > Matt
> >
>
>
>
> Thanks, Michael Sullivan
>
--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/
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