Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 18:50:55 -0500
Reply-To: TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Starter system woes
In-Reply-To: <96c89c360801161531g794e7f52q4954c538e65db1@mail.gmail.com>
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I've known of this problem. I had a 79 bus that has this relay setup. I'm
just in disbelief (reason unknown) but it sure is sounding like the likely
cause. I guess I just didn't want to believe it could be this and was sure
it was a "hard" part failure. So much for gut instinct. For the record, I
did in fact, clean a bunch of grounds off back in the engine bay and the
tranny area. Unbelievably, they were clean. Weird, especially for coastal
Florida. OH, I made a typo on the original post. I meant to say "Ignition
switch" and not "Starter" switch. Thanks to Jake de Villiers for pointing
that out to me. No need to confuse anyone more than I already have. I
heard the old standard Ford relay is the relay of choice for this due to
it's simplicity and low price.
Thanks,
TJ
On 1/16/08, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> This is a very common problem. You should be able to find quite a bit in
> the archives. I believe that one or more of the vendors sells a "hard start
> relay" kit. The problem is caused by a marginal design, resistance at the
> start terminals in the ignition switch, aged wiring with corroded
> connections, gummed up solenoid, vanagon gremlins, or any combination of
> these.
> The solution is usually to put a hefty relay in a location near the
> starter, like under the back seat. When activated, it should make a
> connection between the large positive terminal on the solenoid and the start
> terminal. The wire that originally connected to the start terminal is used
> to activate the relay, so the relay is the only load on the circuit from the
> ignition switch.
> My own measurements indicate that the solenoid coil draws about 37 amps,
> so I feel that the relay should be rated for 50 A or more.
> Dennis Haynes has expressed concern that arcing at the relay contacts
> might weld them together and keep the starter running. I have not seen any
> reports of this happening. I believe he recommended a special type of relay
> which is used in some RVs.
>
> HTH
> Larry A.
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 16, 2008 4:56 PM, TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > All,
> > I've been hunting a mysterious starter problem and I need your help.
> > It's
> > crunch time and I can't tolerate this problem anymore. It's an 87
> > Wolfie GL
> > Automatic. The starter slowly stopped engaging after key rotation.
> > Slowly
> > as in more frequently over a 2-3 month period until it finally quit
> > engaging. So, being the vw geek I am, I dove underneath with metal in
> > hand
> > to jump the contacts. I ordered a replacement switch, put it in, it
> > just
> > barely hesitated but started like normal otherwise. I figured it had
> > been
> > so long since it did that correctly, I must not have noticed the delay.
> > Wrong answer-there is no discernable delay. It just quit working 2-3
> > days
> > later. It starts just fine each and every time I jump the terminals on
> > the
> > solenoid. Every once in a while it will rotate and start but only after
> > a
> > 3-6 second delay. After a previous post to the group, I checked a few
> > items
> > but no luck. I've wiggled the gear selector (and even ran it though the
> > entire range) while holding the key in the start position. I've jiggled
> > the
> > key. No change from either of those. Is there a way to bypass the
> > neutral
> > safety switch for testing. I'm not near my tools currently (long story)
> > or
> > I'd have the console around the selector in pieces already. Can ANYONE
> > think of ANYTHING else that might be doing this? I'm pretty sure that
> > if
> > the start rotates when I jump it, it's 99% good. New starter switch
> > bad?
> > Possible, but not likely. Especially since it has the exact same
> > symptons with the old switch. Someone put me out of my misery.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > TJ
> >
>
>
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