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Date:         Wed, 16 Jan 2008 16:02:42 -0800
Reply-To:     Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Starter system woes
Comments: To: TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <989ea5a20801161550y4f4a022nd346807fe079b2e9@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

From Dennis;

" Yes, there is a crudely designed neutral safety switch. It basically consists of a contact wiper on the gear shift handle and a contact block. This also works the reverse lights. Yes, this is a common failurepoint.

The contact bar wears and or burns and the contact block heats up and softens letting the contact points sink into the plastic. Except for access, both are easy to inspect and replace. The two parts are readily available and reasonably priced. Just lift up the cover at the top of the shift console and look down and to the right. You will see it. The two large red wires are in series with the start circuit of the ignition switch and the starter."

On Jan 16, 2008 3:50 PM, TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@gmail.com> wrote:

> I've known of this problem. I had a 79 bus that has this relay setup. > I'm > just in disbelief (reason unknown) but it sure is sounding like the likely > cause. I guess I just didn't want to believe it could be this and was > sure > it was a "hard" part failure. So much for gut instinct. For the record, > I > did in fact, clean a bunch of grounds off back in the engine bay and the > tranny area. Unbelievably, they were clean. Weird, especially for > coastal > Florida. OH, I made a typo on the original post. I meant to say > "Ignition > switch" and not "Starter" switch. Thanks to Jake de Villiers for pointing > that out to me. No need to confuse anyone more than I already have. I > heard the old standard Ford relay is the relay of choice for this due to > it's simplicity and low price. > > Thanks, > > TJ > > > On 1/16/08, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > This is a very common problem. You should be able to find quite a bit > in > > the archives. I believe that one or more of the vendors sells a "hard > start > > relay" kit. The problem is caused by a marginal design, resistance at > the > > start terminals in the ignition switch, aged wiring with corroded > > connections, gummed up solenoid, vanagon gremlins, or any combination of > > these. > > The solution is usually to put a hefty relay in a location near the > > starter, like under the back seat. When activated, it should make a > > connection between the large positive terminal on the solenoid and the > start > > terminal. The wire that originally connected to the start terminal is > used > > to activate the relay, so the relay is the only load on the circuit from > the > > ignition switch. > > My own measurements indicate that the solenoid coil draws about 37 > amps, > > so I feel that the relay should be rated for 50 A or more. > > Dennis Haynes has expressed concern that arcing at the relay contacts > > might weld them together and keep the starter running. I have not seen > any > > reports of this happening. I believe he recommended a special type of > relay > > which is used in some RVs. > > > > HTH > > Larry A. > > > > > > > > > > On Jan 16, 2008 4:56 PM, TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > All, > > > I've been hunting a mysterious starter problem and I need your help. > > > It's > > > crunch time and I can't tolerate this problem anymore. It's an 87 > > > Wolfie GL > > > Automatic. The starter slowly stopped engaging after key rotation. > > > Slowly > > > as in more frequently over a 2-3 month period until it finally quit > > > engaging. So, being the vw geek I am, I dove underneath with metal in > > > hand > > > to jump the contacts. I ordered a replacement switch, put it in, it > > > just > > > barely hesitated but started like normal otherwise. I figured it had > > > been > > > so long since it did that correctly, I must not have noticed the > delay. > > > Wrong answer-there is no discernable delay. It just quit working 2-3 > > > days > > > later. It starts just fine each and every time I jump the terminals > on > > > the > > > solenoid. Every once in a while it will rotate and start but only > after > > > a > > > 3-6 second delay. After a previous post to the group, I checked a few > > > items > > > but no luck. I've wiggled the gear selector (and even ran it though > the > > > entire range) while holding the key in the start position. I've > jiggled > > > the > > > key. No change from either of those. Is there a way to bypass the > > > neutral > > > safety switch for testing. I'm not near my tools currently (long > story) > > > or > > > I'd have the console around the selector in pieces already. Can > ANYONE > > > think of ANYTHING else that might be doing this? I'm pretty sure that > > > if > > > the start rotates when I jump it, it's 99% good. New starter switch > > > bad? > > > Possible, but not likely. Especially since it has the exact same > > > symptons with the old switch. Someone put me out of my misery. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > TJ > > > > > > > >

-- Jake 1984 Vanagon GL 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie" Crescent Beach, BC www.crescentbeachguitar.com http://subyjake.googlepages.com/


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