Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 18:00:02 -0800
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: ignition switch or starter?
In-Reply-To: <BAY134-W203B40DF897D70EABC224EDB380@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
1. a simple remote starter switch, which is easy to connect, will bypass the
whole rest of the van and tell you immediately if it's the starter or the
rest of the van, assuming good batt, cables etc. why people can't seem to
just jump on the value of this simple tool I just can not get. ( many more
reasons to have one than just starter testing )
2. if you got the starter to work again ever, with the hammer trick, it's
old and worn out. Like due.
3. the ign switch sends the 'start signal' to two places, the starter
solenoid on a bigger wire, and to the fuel pump relay on a smaller wire to
the fuel pump relay. You can't hear the fuel pump running due to the starter
and cranking engine normally.
4 . ..........All I ever do for troubleshooting procedure is 'substitute
and bypass' ( which the remote starter switch is an example of ) ......i
also keep the electrical part of the ign switch around.....
It's not hard to pull the wires and plug off the back of the ign sw, plug in
your spare one, and turn it with a screwdriver. Takes but a minute. You
should always have a spare one of those around, and in your spare parts kit
on trips.
5. since the stock starter energizing circuit gets old after enough years,
sometimes I add a additional starter energizing circuit - a dedicated ,
heavy duty 'real' starter button on the dash - nice flat spot right above
the light switch ......and wire that hot from the battery with nice size
high quality automotive wire - then your starter will always work.
Drawing current all that distance through those old vw grade wires after 25
years......is really kind of hokey I think. If they work fine, fine, but
for an Alaska Grade vehicle, a separate and dedicated heavy duty starter
energizing circuit is 'the way.'
Scott
www.turbovans.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Edward Duntz
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 5:35 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: ignition switch or starter?
My '87 stock 2.1 Wolfsburg Vanagon has had (on top of many other problems-
some solved, some not) some starting issues lately. In the past, the starter
has not worked when very hot, and a tap with a hammer has got it going. It
was mostly in the warmer weather, and I could live with it on an off until I
got the money for a starter.
But now I'm wondering if my ignition switch is starting to go as well.
Yesterday I tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over. A knock on the
starter didn't do the trick. This morning, still no start, but tonight, it
started. But here's what makes me think it was still the starter and not the
ignition switch- When I turned the key to the first position, I heard the
fuel pump kick in for a second like it should. Then when I turned the key to
the start position, it didn't turn over, but I heard the fuel pump again as
I engaged the key. If the ignition switch were not sending current to the
starter, I wouldn't have heard the fuel pump in the start position, would I?
The lock feature that prevents you from turning the key to the start
position while the van is running is broken. And there is an alarm installed
by a previous owner, but the alarm enable/disable key fob seems to work, so
I don't think the alarm was getting in the way.
I did read on the list recently about an ignition switch problem that would
not engage the starter at the start position sometimes.
Am I right in thinking that my problem was still in the starter? That will
be my next thing to do if I keep the van. I still can't solve my high
idle/stumbling at first full throttle under load problem.
Thanks,
Ed Duntz in CT
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