Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 15:54:52 -0800
Reply-To: Donna Skarloken <dskarloken@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Donna Skarloken <dskarloken@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: SMOG TEST failure
In-Reply-To: <017901c869dc$701b5460$6501a8c0@TOSHIBALAP>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
My .02 cents is that for the last several years I have tuned up our vans
prior to smogging, including oil change; last year I had to buy a new cat
for the syncro. My son had to buy a new gas cap for the Wolfsburg this
year. Our mechanic also recommended running the van (i.e. driving around)
for at least 30 minutes prior to the test and remember that for some reason
it seems to take a while for Vanagons to get fully hot. Both are 1987s. I
can't remember which year but recently my syncro was not timed correctly
either as Scott pointed out. I figure with the age of our vans you can't be
too careful and also I am in a Smog Check II district which means I have to
go to a test only station too.
Good luck,
Donna
On Feb 7, 2008 2:54 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
wrote:
> How is your oxygen sensor ?
> Do you know how to take a reading on it to tell if it's got a decent
> output
> ?
>
> Is it running warmly enough ?
> Like needs to be 180 at least, and warmer than that is better. *always*
> leave it idling prior to a smog test, you want it as warm as you can get
> it.
>
> Rather than think 'parts' ...........think 'adjustments and inspection for
> worn parts."
> You should check the throttle switch immediately, and adjust if it's off.
> They get off and no one ever checks or adjusts them on the vanagons I see.
> Also AFM mixture adjustment .......'might' need some attention there, but
> that's not something you usually go messing with.
> Are the spark plugs at least pretty decent ?
> And how's the cat ?
> Oh timing too. Timing too advanced can result in out of spec readings, or
> too retarded too. But too advanced is the common one.
>
> It is fairly straight forward if you start with the basics and work up.
> First check compression.
> Then inspect all tune up parts and test oxygen sensor signal.
> Then do all the adjustments I mentioned.
> And change the oil.
> And really check the exhaust system, like your cat.
>
> I just can't say how important checking the basics are and building up
> from
> there.
> People will throw parts at an engine when it's got seriously bad
> compression
> on one cylinder, or a hollowed out cat, for example.
> You start with the basics, make sure they are ok and logically work your
> way
> up through all the checks and adjustments. It is pretty straight forward
> if you take that approach and have just a few pieces of test equipment.
>
> Give you an example of a California waterboxer I had that failed smog. It
> would also backfire sometimes or something. There's an injector spray
> pattern test in Bentley. I did that test, and a leaking injector was
> immediately apparent. ( hence the backfire sometimes at idle ) .
> Popped in a good used injector, passed just fine.
>
> Need to just check through all the basics, tests, and adjustments in a
> logical and somewhat methodical order............and usually you find
> about
> 5 things about half-off.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> John Goubeaux
> Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 2:31 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: SMOG TEST failure
>
> My 90 failed the California smog test today. In short, the idle values
> were off with HC ppm at 424 where max allowed is 120 though the 2500rpm
> values passed fine and are way below limits.
>
> So I am looking for some clues on where to start with this, and while I
> realize it might not be straight fwd, thought I would see if anyone has
> some insights. Replacing components one by one might get expensive so i
> was hoping on narrowing it down on what it **could be.
>
> Idle is fine though it has been rough for a while at startup and I have
> had intermittent, what appears like missing at high speeds when
> accelerating. I had thought that i was seeing what folks refer to as
> the "vanagon syndrome" but with with the idle values like these am
> thinking that it could be as a result of the idle control valve (though
> it vibrates), the idle control unit or the coolant temp sensor (which i
> am told can cause a rich mixture.
>
> It looks like Bentley has clear steps to trbl shoot the idle though I am
> not sure, without the proper tools, if I can make the needed adjustments
> it calls for.
>
> Thanks in advance for any wisdom that can be shared..!!
>
> -john
>
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