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Date:         Sat, 16 Feb 2008 19:10:26 -0800
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: hose replacement-->coolant dist. replacement-->thermostat
              housing              replacement
Comments: To: Edward Maglott <emaglott@BUNCOMBE.MAIN.NC.US>
In-Reply-To:  <20080217022850.26E0E1E829A@tc2.main.nc.us>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Yes, you need all new o-rings. You might be able to get allen head 8 mm bolts at a good hardware store or FLAPS. If hex ones will fit, I'd use those. I personally do not think the springy clamps are the way to go. I put brush-on Teflon paste from the hardware store on all bolts that go into metal. Makes them come out beautifully years later. I use Toyota black sealant on the o-rings too. Great stuff. ( or on the flat o-ring surfaces actually ) . scott www.turbovans.com

not a bit of this hokey plastic stuff on subaru engines of course. And given that they go about 40 % better than a clunky ole push rod 8 valve waterboxer engine ............it's just so rewarding when you're going 65 and you want to go faster, and something actually happens, and soon, when you push down on the go pedal.

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Edward Maglott Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 6:28 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: hose replacement-->coolant dist. replacement-->thermostat housing replacement

I started out replacing a few hoses in the area of the coolant distributor on my 86 with AT. (some of this is rerun if you followed my earlier post) First major difficulty was after the hoses were replaced and engine heated up on the test run. A few drips from the hose that goes from the coolant dist to the AT cooler. Slid under there to tighten that screw clamp a little and when I did, the torque broke the hose nipple off the coolant dist. This gave me the hot coolant shower and in the haste of getting my hand out of there, it hit the exhaust header about 6 inches from the head, and I am now getting brand new skin there! The old skin feels like a reptile and is peeling off nicely...

Got a replacement coolant distributor with quick and friendly service from Ken at Van Again. Today was the day to put that in. I got some discussion going about the worm gear drive clamps vs. the OEM spring clamps. I like the idea of the spring clamps keeping constant pressure on the hose and the fact that I wouldn't be torqueing on them like I was when I broke the nipple off. In preparation for working today I borrowed a nice tool for the spring clamps that looks like this: http://i3.ebayimg.com/05/i/000/d9/83/dbb3_1.JPG That makes working with those clamps quite easy. So I decided that I would at least try to use the spring clamps in places where the hose goes onto a plastic fitting. Stopped by the local dealer with my part numbers in hand for the few clamps I need. The parts guy said they didn't have any of the spring clamps, that they don't use them and they replace them with the worm gear type. He said he hadn't seen them since the 60's (first tip that he didn't know what he was talking about). He said that mfgs use them because they are cheap and easy to put on, once. (second tip.)

So I went home and decided I would use what I had. Next challenge, getting all the hoses off the coolant distributor. Struggle, struggle, last one left was the crossover hose that goes to the thermostat housing. More struggle, just couldn't get any leverage up in that tiny space. So I decided to take off the other end and take that hose out with the coolant dist and then separate them. Loosened the clamp at the thermostat housing and the hose popped right off. Came off so easy because half the nipple was still in the hose. I had replaced that hose within the past year and put the worm gear hose clamp on there. So again, I was tightening that clamp and putting sideways torque on the 22+ year old plastic and must have cracked it. Good to find that issue now. So that brings me to:

New project, now, to remove the thermostat housing. Loosen many hoses, sure am glad I have that hose clamp tool. Think I will invest in one of some sort, maybe not this fancy cable job though... Next challenge, getting the 2 bolts loose that hold the thermostat housing to the engine. The 6mm hex heads are worn and threatening to strip. I get some PB blaster in there and then carefully turned them and they both come loose. That was a relief. When I got them out it was clear one had been drifted with a chisel to get it out in the past and the other was so worn it was hard to identify 6 flat sides in the head. Oh, and the connector for the temp gauge sender was unlike any I've ever seen on a VW before. Finally got that housing out of the vehicle and took it apart. It looked like someone had sawed or ground the heads off the bolts that hold the thermostat cover on. I may just get a new cover too. Which brings me to the questions:

Should I replace all the O-rings for the thermostat, senders and mounting to the engine? Part numbers for those? Should I use some sort of sealant in putting this back on the engine and the thermostat cover back on? Looks like there was some orange stuff used when it was put together. I guess I will see if I can find replacement bolts locally, but in case I can't, anybody have PN for those? Where's my etka?

Edward


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