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Date:         Sun, 17 Feb 2008 23:07:30 -0600
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: CV joints
Comments: To: Rob <becida@COMCAST.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <vanagon%2008021715004094@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Guys;

No need to use a puller at all to remove a CV from the splines on the shaft. Nice if you have one, but not necessary. I do it my way, and do not have to take the bearing apart, which is not a good idea, anyway. And my way you definitely do not put stress on the bearings.

All you need is a moderately hefty hammer(ball peen preferred) and a 1/2 inch steel or brass bar about 12-14 inches long.

Remove the cir clip on the shaft that holds the CV bearing race to the shaft. Stand the shaft vertically on a block of wood. Place the steel bar adjacent to and parallel to the axle (both should now be vertical and parallel to each other - you can hold them together with one hand) with the end of the bar resting on the inner bearing race. Now tap the steel bar. The force is transferred to the bearing race. Move the bar around to a different position, and tap again. Do this again and again, going around and around. In just a few moments the race will release from the shaft. and you can easily remove the entire CV, being very careful not to allow the steel ball bearings to fall out on to a concrete floor. BTW, these balls ARE NOT interchangeable between bearing races. In fact, each ball should go back into the groove from which it came, because of the wear patterns in this unique kind of flexible bearing .

Rob wrote: > I'm doing CV joints, buying a tube of grease rather than the 4 > initial bags of it was my first (and only so far) mistake. I had to > put about 1/4 of the tube into a ziplock sandwich bag, zipped it shut > and cut a corner off to squeeze it into the joints. > My pitman puller worked GREAT to pull the joint off the shaft, I had > to take the joint apart first but it works well with zero stress to > the parts. > Good directions in the Bentley for reassy the joint. > > > > Rob > becida@comcast.net > >


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