Thanks, all. It is good to have such immediate improvement on such a small repair.
---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> Date: Sat, Mar 22, 2008 at 7:33 PM Subject: Re: Battery and alternator - generic auto electric To: mordo <helmut.blong@gmail.com> Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
Sounds like you've fixed it Mordo. :) Corrosion can really cut the electrical transfer - that's why the repeated mantra of "Clean your grounds!"
On Sat, Mar 22, 2008 at 4:09 PM, mordo <helmut.blong@gmail.com> wrote: > This morning, I put a multimeter to the battery and I got 11.9-12.0 volts > at > idle. I took both the alternator and the battery to the LAPS (F left out > intentionally) to have them tested. The battery and alernator both test > okay. This is a tester at an Advance Auto that only says "PASS" or "FAIL". > I > didn't see a voltage reported on its display. The battery is strong with > no > indication of weak cells. > > I replaced one of the large ring terminals on a red lead, not the one to > the > starter. I assume this is to the battery, yes? It was crusty and the > insulation was cracked. I cleaned up all other terminals and connections > and > now I get 13.9 volts at idle. If 13.8-14.5 volts is acceptable, do we > think > I can attribute this low-ish voltage to corrosion in cables or should I be > concerned about the alternator still? > > > Thanks one and all. I will test the alternator and battery at my FLAPS. > > > > > > Cheers, > > -- > mordo > 1990 Carat >
-- Jake 1984 Vanagon GL 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie" Crescent Beach, BC www.crescentbeachguitar.com http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
-- mordo 1990 Carat |
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