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Date:         Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:13:12 -0700
Reply-To:     neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Neil's motor..
Comments: To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
In-Reply-To:  <170a01c88f8f$017f62c0$6401a8c0@DJZL7KF1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

At this point, getting the engine higher and making the carrier higher too, is a "next time" thing. That and actually getting the bottom part of carrier level! --- :^) I'll be interested to see just how much room is needed for clearance between oil pan and carrier when putting the engine under a load. I actually went and watched my nephews' '02 Jetta just to see how much it moved when revved up. Of course it uses much more modern stuff. Mounts included. But it didn't move too much when revved up. Maybe after this is running, I'll look into correcting the bottom part and moving it up a 1/2" or so. Maybe there's a way to shorten the oil pan too.

Actually, while following some kind of passenger car today, I took notice of how low the oil pan was. Still more clearance on my Westy though. I do go on dirt roads sometimes, but if I can, I make sure it's rated at 2WD. Lack of ground clearance or not, I hate the thought of pounding my van on pot holes etc. any more than needed.

As for keeping it a "full" 2.0, the main reason was to not dick around with swapping the head etc. And as I progressed, I thought it might be useful to see just how many stock Jetta parts could be used. This might help the next person should they decide to do this. More "one stop shopping" using donor parts, possibly introducing less variables when trying to get it to run, and potentially saving money using stuff like the Jetta air box.

I must say, though a very premature comment, that next time, I'd do a 50 degree. (Heck for that matter, I might even do a Suby!) Or, find a better way to fab the carrier so I could gain a couple inches.

But I really should wait til' I drive it before officially commenting. --- ;^)

Neil.

On Wed, Mar 26, 2008 at 3:15 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > Neil > That's great you are keeping the engine a 'full' 2.0. > A common trick is to put a 1.8 gas head on a 2.0 gas block - that's for > clearance at 50 degrees on the left side of the engine bay. > I think it's great you're doing a 15 degree- and I wanna do one of those > one of these days too - all my inline 4's have been at 50 degrees, and I > feel there are real advantages to leaving it like it is, and standing it up > in there. > > And........whatever your cross bar deal is, and that you are happy with it, > that's all that matters...........BUT, ......I mean AND........regarding > ground clearance. > I was thinking about it the other night, and I realized in ALL car and van > installations by manufacturers......the pan is always the lowest part. All > support bars and gross members go around the pan. You don't have a cut out > in your pan since it's from a sideways front engine car........but, since > getting the engine as low as is practical is always desired.......you look > under any car ......volvo, subaru, american front engine V-8, ......and the > pan is always the lowest part - just to get the engine low as is practical > and still have decent ground clearance. > I think if it was my installation I'd be temped to make a cut out at one > end of the pan, flywheel end probably, and run my cross bar through there. > On Subaru engine conversions, whatever support bar is used, it always > goes around the end of the pan, either forward or at the rear, and the pan > is the lowest part. > Anyway ! you having fun is the most important part. > Oh......last thought, on 2WD I fudge the whole engine up as much as 2 solid > inches - as long as the shift linkage angle doesn't get too extreme or > weird, there's room to raise the engine quite a bit compared to stock. > Scott > www.turbovans.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > neil N > Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 8:43 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Neil's motor.. > > > > Thanks for the tips Don. > > It's a different set up than a "diesel" type of install. It's a stock > Jetta ABA 2.0 mounted at 15 degrees. Much more upright. Plus it keeps > the stock 2.0 head and Motronic FI. This changes things a lot over a > given VW I4 using a 1.8 head. But, it presents similar needs. Just > different locations. That I can see........ so far! > > Appreciate you telling me what's in your rig. The ducting from air > intake plenum to air box may end up being a combination of hard and > flexible materials. This would enable me to use the stock air intake > boot..... if my plan works that is! > > I've never seen brake ducting before, but I'll bet there's some kind > of residential HVAC ducting I could use for both the air box snorkel > and the ducting to the throttle body. > > Here's a couple of low res pics (less than 50kb each). In one, you can > see how I've placed the stock air intake boot. > > http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/Aircleanertestfitsmall.jpg/Aircleanertestfit > small-full;init:.jpg > > http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/Engineroughedin1small.jpg/Engineroughedin1sm > all-full;init:.jpg > > > Thanks, > > Neil. > > > > On Wed, Mar 26, 2008 at 5:46 AM, Don Hanson <dhanson@gorge.net> wrote: > > Hey Neil, > > > > I haven't been bringing up your pics of the engine mounts, etc. because > I > > have this *glacial* dial-up internet connection here at my house out in > the > > sticks, but it sounds like you are well on the way. > > A suggestion, as I see you mentioned connecting your air cleaner > somehow. > > In my inline four, the conversion was done when I got it, but the > convertor > > used thin-wall aluminum irrigation sprinkler pipe to fabricate the > intake > > runner from the airbox over to the plenum and it looks like it might have > > been fairly simple for him. The end result is quite sturdy to work with > > when you must dink around with it. My air cleaner is in the stock > > position(?) and the 'duct work' crosses the engine compartment at the > front > > right along the edge of the access hatch, with another snorkel out of the > > aircleaner, made of brake ducting, going up into the right side rear > body > > vent for cool fresh air. > > If your install is similar to the I-4/Diesel one that I have, don't > > neglect to connect the engine mounts across under the motor. I came very > > close to having a huge headache when my right side (the longer one) motor > > mount sheered off the bolts at the engine block, due to it's propensity > to > > twist without the cross brace to defer some of that force.. > > > > Don Hanson > > > > > > -- > Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia - "Jaco" > > http://web.mac.com/tubaneil > http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/ > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.0/1344 - Release Date: 3/26/2008 > 8:52 AM > > >

-- Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia - "Jaco"

http://web.mac.com/tubaneil http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/


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