Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:25:22 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
In-Reply-To: <4d1b79350803291302i655fa850t7acffb3fd06aa0f5@mail.gmail.com>
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I just went out and popped the distributor cap off. I discovered that the
hall effect sensor (if that's what the plastic thing at the rear is) is
cracked loose at its base. Put the distributor back together and started the
car and wiggled the set of wires going to the sensor with a pair of
insulated pliers. The idle improved, but only somewhat.
Is this a plausible reason for the poor running? I checked it because I was
going over every connection disconnected and reconnected for this project.
Jim
On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
> It's a manual transmission. I'm sure the plugs are fine, and it runs fine
> for a short time, and when it starts dropping idle I only have five or maybe
> ten seconds before it shuts off.
> Jim
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 2:52 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> > Jim,
> > You have to say manual or automatic transmission if you are going to
> > talk
> > about how the throttle cable feels.
> >
> > There's no way to mix up the injector wires. The ECU fires them as one
> > big
> > injector, all 4 at once. They are not sequential, or even timed. The
> > only
> > thing the ECU does is keep them open so many milliseconds depending on
> > fuel
> > requirements.
> >
> > Just pull one plug wire at a time to look for obviously not firing
> > cylinders.
> > I'll go over my method on adjusting hydraulic valve lifters if you want.
> > Scott
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> > Of
> > Jim Felder
> > Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 12:39 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
> >
> > Got the right head on this morning, hooked everything up and it started
> > right up, at least from the sounds of the initial idle.
> > It is powerless, though, and it feels as though the throttle is
> > connected to
> > the accelerator by a long, soft rubber band, meaning that there is a
> > strong
> > lag behind pressing the accelerator and the rev of the engine.
> >
> > The engine may (or may not) idle nicely for a while, and then the rpms
> > fall
> > and the engine quits.
> >
> > I know the spark plugs are going to the right place. Could I have the
> > injectors swapped? Could the new, unprimed lifters be doing it? My
> > experience with setting valves on cars tells me that it couldn't be this
> > far
> > out by making a mistake in the valve timing, or could I be wrong about
> > that?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG.
> > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1348 - Release Date:
> > 3/28/2008
> > 10:58 AM
> >
> >
> >
>
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