Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 13:55:44 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
In-Reply-To: <4d1b79350803291349r2f46b709s8a47e5dc22f6957e@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
R U trying to say, that cranking it on the starter the injectors do not
squirt fuel ?
Then the first thing you'd do is pop your little NOID light on the injector
wires to see if the ECU is firing the injectors.
Obviously, the ECU is not firing the injectors, or there is no fuel
pressure, or no fuel is present, or something is clogged.
The distributor btw, is what tells the ECU the engine is turning, and how
fast.
The way I do the 'crank and watch the injectors squirt' is to pull the
distributor, turn on the key, and turn the distributor by hand with my
fingers, and watch the spray pattern.
It's not that the engine is turning, it's that the distributor is.
If the signal is not getting from the distributor to the ECU, the ecu won't
know the engine is turning, and won't trigger the injectors open.
You should check for spark too again, to make sure your dist. Is still
working.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Felder [mailto:jim.felder@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 1:49 PM
To: Scott Daniel - Shazam
Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
Subject: Re: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
A little more... I just went out and pulled the right-side injector pair and
I can't get anything out of them after spinning the engine a few times.
Jim
On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 3:42 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam
<scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
That part of the distributor is notorious for intermittent connection - it's
delicate.
I
Sure , if you are asking does this fit the symptom of poor idle - the answer
is yes.
But that's not a diagnosis and 50 other things could also cause the same
symptom.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Felder [mailto:jim.felder@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 1:25 PM
To: Scott Daniel - Shazam
Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
Subject: Re: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
I just went out and popped the distributor cap off. I discovered that the
hall effect sensor (if that's what the plastic thing at the rear is) is
cracked loose at its base. Put the distributor back together and started the
car and wiggled the set of wires going to the sensor with a pair of
insulated pliers. The idle improved, but only somewhat.
Is this a plausible reason for the poor running? I checked it because I was
going over every connection disconnected and reconnected for this project.
Jim
On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
It's a manual transmission. I'm sure the plugs are fine, and it runs fine
for a short time, and when it starts dropping idle I only have five or maybe
ten seconds before it shuts off.
Jim
On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 2:52 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam
<scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
Jim,
You have to say manual or automatic transmission if you are going to talk
about how the throttle cable feels.
There's no way to mix up the injector wires. The ECU fires them as one big
injector, all 4 at once. They are not sequential, or even timed. The only
thing the ECU does is keep them open so many milliseconds depending on fuel
requirements.
Just pull one plug wire at a time to look for obviously not firing
cylinders.
I'll go over my method on adjusting hydraulic valve lifters if you want.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Jim Felder
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 12:39 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
Got the right head on this morning, hooked everything up and it started
right up, at least from the sounds of the initial idle.
It is powerless, though, and it feels as though the throttle is connected to
the accelerator by a long, soft rubber band, meaning that there is a strong
lag behind pressing the accelerator and the rev of the engine.
The engine may (or may not) idle nicely for a while, and then the rpms fall
and the engine quits.
I know the spark plugs are going to the right place. Could I have the
injectors swapped? Could the new, unprimed lifters be doing it? My
experience with setting valves on cars tells me that it couldn't be this far
out by making a mistake in the valve timing, or could I be wrong about that?
Thanks,
Jim
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